Electronic Ignition for distributor model Indian v-twins was the first
simple and affordable electronic ignition kit on the market 15 years ago,
and it is still number one. Hundreds of happy Indian riders all over the
world rely on IPE Electronic Ignition for their sparks.
Simple to Fit
- Reliable - Original Looking - Works with Manual Advance
Replacement Warranty - see details below
model Chief 1937-53, distributor Sport Scout and 741
The stock Indian points-and-cam setup is not all that accurate. It is not unusual to find timing more than 5 degrees different on front/rear cylinders on Indians that "run well" (to speak nothing of timing with really worn points cams). With the IPE Electronic Ignition timing is the same on both cylinders (as it should be), and there is a noticeable improvement in easy starting and smooth running. And you don't have to perform routine timing checks and adjustments like with points. Oh, yeah, the IPE Electronic Ignition is also waterproof (even functioning fully submerged), which might be of interest to those of us having been left temporarily stranded in the rain by a distributor full of wet points.
If for some reason you have to, adjustment is simple: 1) Turn the engine until the correct flywheel timing mark comes up in the timing hole. 2) Switch on ignition, advance fully (handlebar grip), loosen distributor clamp and twist the distributor until the timing LED comes on, tighten clamp and you're done. Complete fitting instructions below.
The complete Electronic Ignition kit, P/N ELIGN1, costs EUR250.00 (EU), EUR200.00 (World) + shipping (email for postage/shipping costs). Payment by bank transfer or PayPal. More info on the Mail Order Info page.
Warranty: If your IPE Electronic Ignition should ever malfunction under normal conditions within a year from the purchase date, return it and I will send you another free of charge. If that also fails, the problem lies elsewhere.
Every kit is tested before being sent out and they are extremely reliable under normal conditions. Basically the only things that will kill them are bad coils, reversed polarity, bad grounding and high voltage spikes. So make sure (see instructions below) that the resistance between terminals on your coil is 2 Ohms for a 6V coil, and 3 Ohms for a 12V coil, and watch your + and - if you mess around with the wiring. Finally, be aware that a badly regulated DC generator is poison for any electronic ignition (talk to Indian Frank Vandevelde at firstname.lastname@example.org about any Autolite problems you may have - Hi, Frank!). If you blow up your ignition in any of these ways, be honest about it and don't try for a free replacement, OK?
Cambren Davis is one happy IPE Electronic Ignition user.
Read the story of his 1000 mile "Iron Butt" ride here.
Here is a conversion of a Splitdorf magneto on a 101. Mid-1930s "pillbox" models (with the points under a small round cover on the cam cover) have also successfully been converted to IPE Electronic Ignition. Given a little enginuity, I am sure all Indian v-twins can have IPE Electronic Ignition. If you make such an adaption for a non-distributor Indian, send me a couple of snapshots and a brief description of your demon tweak and I will post everything here for our fellow Indian tinkerers to benefit from.
Prices in Euros
Ordering or questions: email@example.com
For more information
on prices, ordering, payment,
IPE Electronic Ignition.
Some Advantages of the IPE Electronic Ignition Kit for V-Twin Indians:
Instructions for the IPE Electronic Ignition kit.
The system has been extensively tested on hundreds of Indians all over the world over more than 15 years with great reliability, but for peace of mind you can keep a set of points and a condenser in your toolbox and re-fit these parts on the road in minutes in an emergency.
1) Remove distributor cap and rotor. Remove points and disconnect (or remove) condenser. Remove wire leading from the negative side ('Dist' on stock coil) of the ignition coil to the points. Remove terminal post screw from distributor body.
2) Make sure your distributor is in good condition. The kit is a great fix for worn points cams, but worn out distributor shaft bushings etc won't help. Make sure your coil is compatible with the electronic ignition. Measure with multimeter across the coil terminals. A 6V coil should have a resistance of minimum 2 Ohms, a 12V coil should be around 3 Ohms.
3) Fit electronic ignition mounting plate in distributor body using the original points screws (see note on electrical grounding below).
4) Pull new wires through wire hole in distributor body. Fit flex over wires.
5) Slip new rotor over points cam with punch mark centered over small cam lobe, and "V" mark (this is over the trigger magnet for the front cylinder) pointing at the sensor. Tighten the 3 set screws evenly, using M2.5 allen key, supplied with kit, so the rotor runs concentrically with points cam shaft. You can use a drop of low-strength Loctite on the screws if you like.
6) Connect red wire to the positive (+ or 'bat') side of coil, and the green wire to the negative (- or 'dist'). Wiring terminals for crimping and soldering, and heat shrink flex, are included in kit.
7) Good ground/earth connection between the electronic ignition sensor and engine is vital. If this fails at the moment the coil fires, the ignition sensor may be overloaded and damaged. Make sure the floor of the distributor housing is clean and free from paint where the electronic ignition mounting plate screws on. The electrical ground connection, through the oily bushing in the oil pump for the distributor, between the distributor and the rest of the engine is marginal, so it is a good idea to fit a ground wire between the distributor body and a suitable point on the engine (cloth-covered wire and terminals included in kit).
In rare cases (less than 1%) where wear and manufacturing tolerances stack up the wrong way, it may be necessary to shim the mounting plate to bring the height of the sensor into the triggering range of the magnets. In this case, don't use laquered beer can material for the shim, but make sure you use something clean and nicely conductive. If shimming the other way should be needed (i.e. magnets raised in relation to the sensor), you can put shim washers under the magnet rotor on the distributor shaft. It is unlikely that you will need to do any of this; just throught I would mention the possibility - and the easily overlooked detail of shim conductivity.
8) Time ignition as usual: Turn the engine until the correct flywheel timing mark comes up in the timing hole. Switch on igntion, advance fully (handlebar grip), loosen distributor clamp and twist the distributor until the timing LED comes on, tighten clamp and you're done.
9) Refit hammerhead rotor and distributor cap.
10) Go for a ride on your "new" Indian!
Email me on firstname.lastname@example.org if there is anything you are not sure of.