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This page is a little bit like zoo people
hiding the animals' food to keep them on their toes!
The parts here come in random order, so
you have to scroll up and down to see all that is relevant to your Indian
model.
Here are the bolts for the 741 and
Sport Scout outer primary cover. Near the bottom of the page you can
see the bolts for the crankcase and engine plates. |
Pic by Simon
F
|
Note how bolts II
and III have coarse (1/4"-20) threads and
screw directly into the crankcase and transmission housing. Bolts
I (1/4"-28 threads) have nuts on the back of the inner primary cover.
The 4 bolts IV
are for the magneto drive cover
on Sport Scouts (link) and are not used on
741. The rest of the bolts (and washers W
and nuts
N) are the same for both. |
These bolts and washers are for fastening
the 741 and Sport Scout inner primary cover to the transmission (or
gearbox) case. The bolts are all 1/4"-20 coarse thread as they screw directly
into the transmission case.
I have given their numbers a different
color
in the picture to the left of here to indicate that they are not visible
with the outer primary cover fitted. The purple numbers in the picture
to the left show their approximate position on the inner primary cover. |
Exhaust systems are available to
order for most models. Here for the 1939 Chief, probably the wildest
of them all, with swoopy tail pipe and fishtail.
The front pipes (and the basic muffler
body; 1936-38 had a "town and open road" cutout and fishtail directly on
the end of the muffler) are the same from 1936-39, but complete exhausts
are available for those years also.
1939 was the last year of the exhaust pipes
inside the frame, and can be tricky to fit. A little welding required (tail
pipe bracket after fitting to your exact Chief + fishtail: horizontal in
1939).
From 1940 the factory used a narrower frame
with the exhaust pipes on the outside of the frame tubes, making things
easier. |
1936-39 Chief generator bracket.
I couldn't decide which
pic to use; the better looking above, or the more illustrative below, hence
both here!
The rigid-frame Chiefs had their generator
in front of the frame saddle tube. From 1940 a new bracket behind the frame
tube.
If you use 1940-on cylinders and heads
on earlier engines you can use the 1940 bracket for clearance (no room
for generator between bigger cylinder and frame tube). Example. |
1936-39 Chief generator belt guard.
Note reinforcement on the inside below.
A new one was used from 1940, and the
belt
changed too. Guards are special order, but I usually have belts for all
models in stock. Notched belts (like here) wrap around their pulleys easier,
but plain old belts also work fine.
 |
 |
The distributor
used on 1936-53 Indian v-twins looks more complicated than it is (lots
of small parts). Explanation here.
Pic above shows the electrical parts.
<- Pic to the left shows the
mechanical parts.
See also manual advance
parts below. |
Here is how the points parts go together.
Insert shows the central terminal post with its very important insulation
washers; one each side of the wall of the distributor body. |
 |
Sometimes only a single or a few parts
are needed. Front brake cable adjuster screw and lock nut, and the
clevis
(fork) with its several parts, was used on 1936-42 Chief, Sport Scout,
Junior Scout and Four. Similar front brake parts for other years and models
also available.
| <- Placeholder
pic; just because :-) |
|
Pic by Markus
W
|
Sorry about the messy pic. A detail with the
generator
drive pulley on the primary cover is that there isn't clearance for
changing the belt without removing the pulley - unless you cut one flange
like this. Ask if in doubt. Preferably before cutting if you're not sure! |
Someone showed me the battery frog
- or battery hold down clamp - from his 1947 Chief and asked if
it would fit his 741 project. See my answer.
Chief up to 1939 used a different system with straps, this clamp 1940-51,
and another for 1952-53. Sport Scout 1934-39 and 1940-42 two different
clamps. More 741 battery parts below. |
Snake! - or a Corbin speedo cable
1931-42 most models (different lengths). Authentic outside, modern
cable inside. Custom made to special order so expect some delivery time. |
Generator drive parts for a late
30's Chief. These parts (except the belt) are more or less the same for
all Chiefs from sometime in the 1930s (I will look it up... 1934
I think) to 1953. There are some options with the bushings that we need
to discuss. |
A customer with an early Scout
had to get into his clutch. 24C55 gasket. I still have a few 1920s
and 101 gaskets but probably won't get more when they are gone. The six
lock
washers for the clutch spring plate nuts, and big lock washer for the
clutch drum nut in the middle fit all twins from 1920-53 and are usually
in stock. |
All twins used a sump valve from 1938-47.
In late 1947 it changed to this
flywheel
scraper, which was made as part of the crankcase in 1948-53. I fit
this to all engines I can, including 741s, to replace the often troublesome
sump valve. The filter fitting left is the correct one to use, the fitting
center is just shown as an alternative. Other oil lines below. |
Clutch parts. Most of these are
the same for all Indian twins from the 1920s-up, but a few like the primary
cover "nut" top left, clutch release worm middle row left, and lever nuts
(in pic for customer to choose from; they are all 1/2"-24 thread and interchangeable)
came in a few versions over the years. |
Pic by Max
R
|
So... say you want to go to Morocco on your
Chief. What spare parts should you bring?
I suggested: Distributor
cap and rotor + a clip (they can break). Points and condenser. Head gaskets
(solid copper are most "blow-out proof"). Chain link. Kickstarter washer
and lock ring. If the kicker spring breaks a bungee cord can be used. JB-Weld/Araldite
for leaky fuel or oil lines (or emergency dentistry!). Iron wire, cable
strips and gaffa tape. -> |
Sahara spare parts!
Not in pic, but solid copper head gaskets
were also brought along on the trip. |
Chief cylinder head bracket and
spark
plug wire tube. Bracket and minor hardware varies between models, but
the tube was used on most Indian twins from the mid 1930s up. Chrome bracket
fits on rear tank bolt and saves your leg from getting zapped by the rear
spark plug! |
Chief primary drive parts. Engine
sprocket with cork seal. The chain tensioner shoe, its lever and shaft
and the lock nut for the tensioner screw are different on rigid frame
(in pic here) and 1941-53 spring frame models (below). Most other parts
are the same. On 741 and Sport Scout the
parts are similar but most are different in detail. |
Fitting the cork seal. Put
it in boiling water to soften it. Carefully fit it on the sprocket. Put
sprocket seal-down on a newspaper to dry overnight. With relatively fine
sand paper on a flat plate, sand down the dry cork to stand *just* above
the surface of the sprocket.
NOTE: Select the
thickness of the big thrust washer behind the sprocket for correct crank
end play (see manual) before fitting the cork.
|
Instrument panel mounting parts
for 1938-47 Chief. Part in the center is a shim (may need more than one)
to fine tune panel height. Part to the right is a replacement cast part
for frame repair.
1937-39 Chief wheel hub parts.
Both the original felt seals (and their retainers below them) and modern
lipped seal option are shown - they replace both felt seals and
retainers. There were a few different wheel hubs for Chiefs over the years,
with different versions of these parts. |
 |
<- Parts
for a mixed 1947-48 Chief engine; Connecting rod races. Cam side
main bearing housing is 1948-53 but the front cam shaft is 1938-47 for
the cast iron oil pump (it changed to the aluminium pump with a different
cam shaft in 1948), and distributor drive gear. Many Indian engines are
a mix of years which can work fine with a little thought (or asking
your favorite Indian parts supplier for guidance!). Next down in picture;
pushrods available in several sizes for honing worn pushrod guides. Valve
lift (cam follower) pivot shafts also available in oversizes for honing
worn lifts. Chain tensioner shoe and wider lever (compare to pic above)
are for a 1940-53 spring frame. Distributor grease cup, name tag and rivets,
and advance clamps and cable swivel. The X'ed clamp wasn't in stock when
I took the pic with a used one as place holder, but arrived in time to
send out the order. |
Here is the wheel bearing lock nut from
the left in the pic above - with the tab washer for the 1931-47 Corbin
speedometer drive. The ears have a habit of breaking off the washer
if care is not taken to get them to fit both drive (below) and nut without
binding.
Speedo drives available to order. |
Here is the full set of distributor
advance parts. A bit overwhelming; I understand the temptation to just
stick a magneto
in the oil pump! This is a staged pic I use to show it all in one place.
Most
of the parts are the same for Chief and Scout from 1938-53, the main
difference is the clamping for the outer advance cable. Big coil clamp
on the right is for Chief 1938-46. Twisted clamp is for 741, Junior Scout
and Sport Scout. 1947-53 Chief used the neat L-clip with two special nuts
on the outer cable. |
1946-48 Chief girder fork shackle bolts
and parts. The new 1946 fork had needle roller bearings (middle left
in pic) and hardened shackle bolts. That changed in 1948 to bronze bushings
and non-hardened bolts. The new bushings were were a smaller outside diameter
than the 1946-47 bearings. As hardening and grinding is more difficult
than lathe turning - which may have been a reason for the factory
change - only shackle bolts for bushings are now available new. But both
bigger bushings (bottom row in picture above) to replace the 1946-47
bearings, and smaller 1948 bushings (top row in pic) are available.
Also in pic, o-rings (one is used for each bushing) to keep grease in and
rain out, knurled washers that must *just* turn when
adjusting the bolts, as well as nuts and washers. |
Oil line and fittings for 1948-53
aluminium oil pump and crank case with cast-in scraper. This is the oil
line from the crank case back to the pump. Note that the oil line has a
different shape than the 1947 scraper version above.
The 1938 to early 47 sump valve
oil line is a third shape (see below). The oil pump fittings also vary
over the years and between Chief and Scout, and there are different oil
lines between the oil tank and the oil pump for Chief 1938-47 and for 1948-53
- and different again for 741 and Sport Scout. |
Footboards and parts 1940-53 all
models. Well, except the military 741 etc, but these footboards will also
fit the military bikes. Footboards and associated parts for earlier models
also available to order. |
1946-48 Chief steering damper parts.
Compare with 741 parts bottom of page. Leaf spring models didn't have a
damper from the factory but there were aftermarket dampers. The main part
with the hand wheel here was also used on 1950-53 Chief, but some of the
small parts were different. |
Front fork shock absorber for 1946-48
Chief, as well as the small parts for fitting the shock to the girder fork
assembly. Most other girder fork parts available to order. |
Battery parts for 741. Similar
parts are available for most other models.
-
Rear wheel hub parts for 741, Sport
Scout. Similar parts available for other models |
Oil related parts for 1938-47 Chief;
similar parts used for other models but with some differences. Oil filter
for return tube in tank (alternative oil filter here),
felt ring for oil tank filler neck, oil lines and tank fittings (drain
plug with and without magnet), breather tube (bent for easier transport
here) and frame tube clips, oil tank fittings; 1938-47 return, 1939-47
feed, 1938-only feed with taper thread, and 1938 to early 47 sump
valve oil line with fittings. |
A selection (more types are available)
of fuel valves (taps) for most models. The two most common
Linkert float needle seats (1944-48 and 741 for fuel filter left, no-filter
right) and DIY fuel line kit for soldering up with 1/4" copper pipe.
Ready-made fuel lines for most models also available to order. |
-
All the lower engine parts for a 741
with only bare cases, flywheels and rods. Rollers left out for clarity.
This
basic architecture is the same for all Indian v-twin engines from 1920-53,
but the actual parts differ. I use this picture for general
reference when discussing engine lower ends. I usually have these parts
in stock for 1930s-53 Chief, Sport Scout and 741. Rod races and bearing
housings come in a few different outer diameters for reclaiming oval or
tapered connecting rod big ends and crank case bores. They all need honing
or lapping internally, to fit one of the 5 sizes of bearing rollers I have.
There are some procedures to observe with this (including cleaning off
honing residue that is very damaging to engines); we can get back to that. |
-
<- Top row: rod races
and 4 bearing retainers for the connecting rod big ends.
<- Second row: Flywheel
crank pin nut and locking washer, hardened crank pin thrust washer for
setting end play of the connecting rod assembly between the inner faces
of the flywheels; I have the thrust washers in more thicknesses than the
factory. And the same for the other side. Here's the basic procedure;
also read the
manual + we can
discuss when you get to it. Trial assemble the flywheels
- nuts torqed per the manual - with a set of fairly thin washers,
measure end play of rod assembly, select alternative washers to get end
play right, take apart and do it again :-) I usually advise someone with
a lathe to turn up dummy washers in any handy material, do the above and
tell me which size washers to send. That is the basis of assembling Indian
v-twin lower ends, apart from the bearing race sizing.
<- Third row: Pinion
(cam side) main bearing housing, thrust washer, pinion shaft, shaft nuts,
drive shaft, thrust washer, drive side bearing housing, black drive
side bearing nut above it. |
-
<<- The two pinion and drive
shaft thust washers are for setting the crank assembly end play between
the inner faces of the main bearing housings. Final
assemble flywheel assy after setting the rod end play (having checked rods
for straightness and piston pin fit first), fit rollers and retainers,
fit flywheel assembly in cases with fairly thin thrust washers, close cases
with bolts tightened, measure crank end play and check that rods are central
in cylinders. Select thrust washers based on this (combined thickness of
the two washers for end play; rod centrality can be adjusted by selecting
different thickness thrust washers each side, so make notes of what is
used for trial assembly). Repeat as needed and let me know which thickness
washers to send.
<<- Bottom row: pinion
(cam drive) gear and felt seal retainer, felt seal, nut and washer, 2 main
bearing roller retainers, shaft keys, nut locking washers and screws to
fasten lock washers to flywheels, 4 roller retainers and spacer for the
drive side. |
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Brake pedal for Chief 1936-39.
Pedal pivots on an extended nut on the front engine mounting bolt. The
clevis (fork) for the rod to the rear brake was used in various roles from
1924-53. Pedal return spring in small hole.
Rear brake parts 1936-39. Similar
parts for the 1940-53 setup and other models/years are also available to
order.
|
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Brake pedal for Chief 1940-53.
Pedal pivots on a bushing (or spacer) on a separate bolt on the frame.
The front of two brake rods fits in either hole (brake force adjustment?).
Pedal return spring is fitted further back.
<- If you imagine the long brake
rod in this picture, all the other 1936-39 parts between pedal and rear
brake arm are shown.
Note: Not shown
are the screws etc for the switch and plate (and the lower chainguard bracket
that the plate fits to). The factory parts book is pretty vague about this,
but here is my best guess. |
-
1936-39 brake pedal seen
from above, with the extended nut and Zerk nipple in place.
1940-53 brake pedal seen
from above, with spacer and Zerk grease nipple fitted.
Pedals for other models also available.
|
Horn parts for leaf spring fork
Chief and Four; everything except the actual horn. Some of these parts
were used for different years. The chrome face for 1931-40, the J-brackets
1938-45, the rubber mounts from 1931-45, the horn back 1938-40. The horn
push button for all models from 1928-53 (1928-29 nickel plated, 1930-up
chrome) with some detail differences. The combination of parts here is
for 1938-40, but more or less all years combinations are available to order. |
It is a pain to photograph shiny chrome
parts, but here is a better view of the 1931-40 horn face. The 6
screws and special (tall) lock washers are for fitting the face to the
horn...
|
...as seen here.
An authentic horn assembly is wonderful,
but if your Indian is more of a "rider" than a "correct" restoration, it
is tempting to bypass all of this for a small hidden "universal" horn,
spending the saved money on engine parts!
I think I may have actually used a horn
twice in 45 years of motorcycling :-) |
More or less all the internal transmission
(gearbox) parts for most years Chief. Like with the 741 lower engine
parts above, this basic architecture is the same
for all v-twin Indians from 1920-53 (and the roots of it are
much earlier), even though actual parts differ between models and years. |
Transmission/gearbox
parts.
1 Counter shaft gear. 2
Bushings. 3 Spacer. 4 Slider gear. 5 Sprocket driver
gear. 6 Bushing for SDG. 13 Main shaft. 14 Thrust
washers in various thicknesses for setting main shaft
end play and moving it from side to side - like a thinner washer one side,
a thicker the other, same combined thickness for chosen end play.
16
Key for clutch hub. 17 Nut for clutch hub (L/H thread).
18
Lock washer for clutch hub. 19 Counter shaft. 20 Sealing
washer in case. 21 Key to keep C/S from turning. 22. Lock
ring to keep C/S inside 19BL which is the left case bushing for
the countershaft; you can see the lock ring groove and keyway in it.
19BR
is the right side bushing; both of these steel bushings
should be an interference fit in the case (fitted by heating the case)
so they don't move. They are available in several outside diameters for
this. 27 Shaft for shifter fork.
28
Lock screw for shaft. E Lock washer for kickstarter parts.
F
Nut for kicker stuff. 24 Sprocket nut. 25 Lock washer for
sprocket nut. |
When discussing parts with customers I
often put numbers on emailed pictures to make things easier to figure
out. Like here.
<- See list of parts to the left. |
Typical 1930s-1947 kickstarter parts.
The big gear (here a 32T, 28T is also common;
kickstarter crank must match the gear) and the "clutch" to the right of
it were replaced with a new setup in 1948, losing the old ratchet noise
from the clutch when the engine has started but the teeth on the kick crank
is still in mesh with the gear.
From 1920 the
basic architecture of this was the same, but with smaller gear
and clutch and such. Over the years most parts varied (a few actually stayed
the same), but the overall idea remained unchanged. |
Clutch on gear, arrow
shows notch for punching the lock washer down into. One side of the washer
is folded up against a flat on the nut. The clutch is fixed (oval
hole) on the main shaft. The gear can rotate and float axially on the outer
straight part of the shaft.
The spring keeps gear and clutch in contact
but allows the clutch to slip and make that typical Indian kicker noise.
|
The sprocket driver gear (5 above) runs
with its bushing 6 on the thick straight part of the main shaft, and the
step in the shaft must stick out of the gear a little even if all shaft
end play is taken up in the "in" direction. If not, the cupped washer rides
on the end of the gear. The cupped washer must sit on the step on the
shaft. If circumstances (maybe clutch hub stick-out
on the other end of the shaft) demand that the shaft is shimmed deep into
the gear, a trick is to put a kick crank lock ring on the step to bring
it clear of the gear. See "Sahara" above. |
Finishing the parts around the transmission
sprocket driver gear (SDG) is the sealing arrangement. There are
a two options here; more info in the next columns ->
-
| There
are often options with Indian parts that we need to discuss when figuring
out parts for your Indian project. |
|
5 Sprocket
driver gear. 7 Two options for bearings for the sprocket driver
gear and clutch sprocket. 8, 9, 10, 11 are
the original parts for the felt seal (9). 8A, 9A, 11A
are the same parts for the lipped seal introduced in 1947 which also fits
earlier models if all parts are replaced as a set. The felt seal retainer
10 is not used with the lipped seal. 23 Sprocket (generally,
23T for sidecar Chiefs, mountains or city-only riding, 24T better for all-round
use, with 25T if you mostly ride motorways; Scouts use smaller sprockets).
24
Sprocket nut. 25 Lockwasher;
punch the edge
of the washer into the hole in the sprocket and fold one edge of the washer
up along a flat on the sprocket nut to keep it from loosening. |
Here is the picture with numbers like
above. You can see that the numbers are the same for the same parts.
It is a coincidence that I happened to pick a 23T sprocket for the pic.
Sprocket is fitted
with the recessed face out like in the pic, and must fit tight against
collar 11 or 11A, otherwise the splines on SDG 5 will quickly be damaged.
That will also happen if you don't keep nut 24 tight. |
Again numbers make it easier to figure
things out by emailed pictures. Here all the bolts for 741 and Sport
Scout crankcase halves and engine plates.
I have similar bolts etc for other common
models though some of it may have a little delivery time. But work with
me and we will get there :-) |
Pic by Simon
F
|
|
To the left and above; where everything
fits.
Spacer 5**
is for the lower frame tubes.
Spacer 3*
is part of one engine plate.
Extra long nut ***
is for the generator drive. |
741 fork parts for a customer starting
with just about nothing. Not all these parts are always available, so try
to start your 741 project with a little more than nothing! |
 |
To the left and above; 741 and Sport Scout
fork spring parts for the same project. Some fork parts are different for
741 and Sport Scout but many are interchangeable.
We will figure it out. |
741 and Sport Scout fork damper
parts for the same project. It would be a really good idea not to start
your project with nothing. There will be a lot of parts to buy. But this
project turned out great in the end.
Same here but not assembled -> |
 |
741 steering damper parts for the
same project. They also fit Sport Scout (SS).
Many 741 parts do, but far from all even
if these models are generally quite similar. |
741 fork shackles for the same
project.
These parts are different for 741 and
SS.
741 fork bolts, bushings etc.
These parts are different for 741 and
SS.
Fun fact: The earliest
741s - that mainly went to NZ - used Sport Scout shackles, bolts etc. |
Parts for another 741. Kickstarter,
sprocket, lock washers, primary chain link, throttle shaft bushings. Fairly
typical for a regular renovation starting with a complete bike. More parts
usually needed for other areas of the bike. |
Numbers again. More or less all 741
gaskets. I don't do "complete" gasket sets. There is no common agreement
what should be in them. Are sealing washers
for oil pump fittings included, for example? (generally no). It is best
to go over everything to be sure you get what you need. Good fiber head
gaskets usually in stock as well as solid copper. Chief and SS gaskets
usually also in stock. |
741 and Sport Scout primary chain tensioner
parts. Compare the shoe (that runs against the 3-row Scout chain) and lever
with the two Chief (4-row chain) versions
above. Short lock nut used on Chief up to 1940 too. |
More primary chain tensioner parts
(here 1941-53 Chief), showing the internal construction. This is similar
for all of them, and some - but not all - parts are the same. Most small
parts, like the spring in the pic, are available individually to rebuild
otherwise usable tensioner assemblies. Long adjuster screw lock nut used
for 1941-53 Chief; other years and models used the short nut.
A framed 741 factory gasket set :-)
->
Also a new bracket for a Corbin
speedometer. Used on 1938-47 Chief and Four, and 1952-53 Chief when they
went back to Corbins after having used Stewart-Warner speedos with front
wheel drive 1948-51. |
Upside down here; bracket loops under
the frame tube, clamping speedo on top of it. |
Chief manifold and parts. Aluminium
manifold used 1947-53 but fits earlier models (that used a cast iron manifold)
too. PEEK sealing cones made
to fit each manifold. Manifold nuts, cylinder nipples and pins. I usually
have at least one of these in stock. |
Handlebar control cables and parts,
various years and models usually in stock. Threaded colllars for handlebar
repair, right in pic, no longer available. Early model cable ends, left
in pic, are still in stock but there won't be more. More about related
parts here. |
Manifold for Keihin CV carb on 741,
just a few left, there probably won't be more. |
Parts for a 1940 Chief. Speedo
cable and front brake cable parts, oil lines, Zerk grease nipples, fuel
valves for customer to choose from, wheel bolts and a few other parts.
Sport Scout parts ->
Pushrods with and without oil grooves
for customer to choose from. Pushrods for 741, SS and Chief usually in
stock in STD and oversizes for honing worn guides. |
Not the nicest lighting
here, before I settled on my present setup. |
Oil lines for a 741. 741 oil tank
fittings have an angled head where Chief
and SS are straight. Angle fittings (pic)
for fuel valve clearance on carb side tank for big carbs (Keihin CV etc),
optional on the other side.
<- Sport Scout parts. Original
pushrod guide used for checking valve spring cover threads before sending
parts out. |
