Motolamp shell 1931-36 - modified for the 1939-47 rim.
Factory number for the 1931-36 Head Lamp Body Assembly was 35B188X.

Click for bigger pictures.


MOTOLAMP is a bit hard to read in this picture, but it is there :-)


Top round hole is for the wiring (1931-36 see text on the Original Parts page) with a rubber grommet in it.
Big hole in the middle is for the mounting bolt.
Square hole at the bottom - the front of the lamp - is where the 1931-37 bracket was.

This bracket is just a "L" shaped piece of steel riveted to the headlight shell and with a threaded hole for the rim to fasten.
If you are going to use this with a 1931-37 rim, look for pix of the original bracket and make one as close as you can, drilling the hole to fit your rim.

1939-47 rim in the picture is included. It is not an original rim but still has a little patina :-)


Here it is without the rim, so you can better see the hole where the bracket was.

The L-shaped bracket was riveted on the inside of the headlamp shell, with one leg sticking down through a slit in the shell.
You can see in the pic above that both the length and the width of the slit is preserved, so no guesswork in restoring it - just cut a small square of sheet steel and weld it in.


Just about all original 1931-36 Motolamps I have seen were painted black, but if I didn't know that I would say that this looks a lot like original paint (and it may still be; the factory were open for special orders).

Wiklunds, the Swedish importer, even got their Indians in green! but without Motolamps... Wiklunds, and several other European importers got their Indians from the Wigwam without electrical equipment, and fitted Bosch magnetos, generators, headlights - maybe taillights but the 101 in the link above has an Indian tail lamp - horns and handlebar switches.

When you see original factory paint it is striking how thin it is compared to what is used now.

New parts got a chemical dip (corrosion protection and primer) and then a dip in a bathtub of paint. You can often see the runs from this in original paint.

That is way cooler than perfect modern paint, but sometimes modern paint is unavoidable; one can try to make it a bit restrained and neither too thick or too shiny. Personally I think simple spray cans come the closest to factory paint you can get without going to crazy lengths to get it authentic, but that may just be me.

One way to preserve parts with some, but not a lot of original paint is to carefully clean it, and then oil it. That makes the original paint really come to life + it sort of blends in the ares where paint is gone.

Another striking thing with factory paint is how thin the pinstripes are (paint costs money, gold paint costs double! -maybe). Brochures were prepared by graphical artists who retouched pictures without giving second thought to "originality"; they often made the pinstripes much thicker in the pictures than in real life to make them clearer to see in the pictures...