Index
of New Parts (so far), in alphabetical order. Fat blue text links to parts
on this page. Parts with fat black text are on other pages (click thin
blue links to go there).
741 manual and parts
book on CD (741 page).
Battery
mat (all models).
Bearing
housings in custom sizes.
Books for early models
(101 page)
Bosch
magneto parts (101).
Breather
valve (Chief and other models).
Chopper
Linkert cable kit (most models).
Cloth-covered
wire.
Clutch
for 1920-27 Scout and Super-X.
Custom
saddle bracket.
Cylinders (Chief
page).
Drive
side bearing Nose Fix (741 and Sport Scout).
Engine
repair work.
Oil and fuel line fittings
for 101 etc (101 page).
Floats
for Schebler and Linkert carbs, cork and closed-cell foam.
Gaskets for 101 and
1920-27 Scout (101 page).
Handlebar parts (101
page).
Hedstrom
crankpin.
Internal
throttle grip.
New James gaskets
(James page).
Jockey shifters (Chief
page).
K&N
air filters (1940-53).
Keihin
CV manifold (Chief).
Keihin CV manifold
for 741 (741 page).
Keihin CV jet kit
and parts (Chief page).
Leaf spring forks
(Chief page).
Manifold (Chief
page).
Needles for Schebler
DLX carbs (101 page).
Oil filters (Chief
& 741 pages).
PEEK
manifold sealing cones (all models).
Pinion
housing for line honing (741 and Sport Scout).
Points for Bosch
magneto (101 page).
Powerplus
muffler.
Prince
crankpin, pinion- and drive shafts.
Pushrod
guides, stainless (741)
Pushrod
guides, stainless (Chief)
Quick
Drain oil valve (Chief etc).
Riders
Handbook, new edition (Chief).
Shifter knobs (Chief
page).
Stroker Scout parts
(stroker page).
Taper
roller st/hd bearing kit.
Tappet adjusting
nuts (741 page).
T-Shirts,
Land Speed Racing.
Valve
covers, stainless (101).
Valve
covers, stainless (741).
Valve
covers, s/s (Chief).
Valve
guide seals (Chief).
|
I
am slowly working my way through the backlog of parts that haven't yet
been posted here - and new parts are being added to the IPE range all the
time too! But here's a selection (there's more new parts on the Chief,
741 and 101 pages). More will be added on a regular basis.--
|
Click
photos to enlarge |
2023:
Regrettably not available any more. Welding and remachining your broken
cases - or finding a better set - is probably your best bet for now. I
am thinking of a new solution, but I don't think fast, so if you need cases
fixed soon, go back to the top.
Not really new parts, but something I have
kind of neglected to point out. A seldomly realized fact is that old Indian
crank case bearing bores are usually oval and/or tapered, and need to be
made round and good again before it makes any sense to fit new bearing
housings. This also goes, maybe even more so, for connecting rods. So -
for a serious repair - the stock size of bearing housings won't actually
fit the way they are supposed to. Some suppliers have a few fixed-size
oversize bearing housings. This means that you will have to aim for one
of these when reparing your crank cases.
Raw, heat treated bearing housing blanks
are in stock, being ground to order to outside diameter to fit your repaired
cases. This may make them a bit more expensive, but it is probably the
last time you are going to do this, so you might as well do it the right
way!
If you are not sure how to go about repairing
your cases, email me. IPE can also do it for you - as well as any other
engine repair work.
[back to
top of page]
|
"Nose Fix" drive side repair
bearing housing, and Sportster-flywheel stroker
pinion housing, for 741 and Sport Scout in custom oversizes to fit a customer's
(hi Brent!) rebored cases.
IPE
also has pinion- and drive shafts, crank pins and primary
drive intermediate gear shafts (for geared-primary models). Full
list coming soon.
Parts
like cam follower pivot pins for Chief and Scout are almost always
ground to measure, based on the cleaned-up hole size of your followers.
Pushrods
are usually in stock in most oversizes. For more oddball stuff we
might have to wait for a batch of production parts to go to heat treatment
for your request to be economical. But, with a little patience, most things
are possible |
2023:
Regrettably machining and engine repair work has been suspended until further
notice.
Actually, engine repair work is another
IPE specialty I have neglected to point out.
I will try to start a new page on
this website soon, dedicated to engine work. Both about what I can offer
and, hopefully, also enough information and inspiration for anyone, thinking
about having a go at rebuilding their Indian engine, to feel comfortable
about it. On the About IPE page, there's a little
about my general take on this.
You can see a bit of IPE's engine work
on the Salt Cracker 741 racer page
All engine work and parts on this bike - apart from the blower stuff and
cosmetics - came from IPE.
With my ace machinist, IPE can do anything
that may need doing when it comes to Indian engines (including centrifugal
casting of white metal bearings for Fours, but more about this another
time). Typical Indian V-twin engine repair jobs include:
Connecting rod rebuilds; straigtening,
honing eyes back to round, fitting new rod races (restoring the end play
between rods to what it should be) and pin bushings, and honing these to
fit your new crank- and piston pins.
Crank case repairs; welding and machining,
thread repair, gasket surfaces restored, line boring bearing bores, fitting
new bearing housings and line honing these to fit your new pinion- and
drive shafts. Cam bushings, push rod guides (honed for O/S push rods) and
cam followers (honed for new pivot pins, new pins fitted to cases, rollers
and rivets changed) can be done at the same time.
Cylinder rebuilds, boring, honing to fit
your new pistons, valve guides and -seats rebuilt. Fin welding repairs
as needed, too.
Flywheel rebuilds, balancing to your new
pistons, setting rod end play between flywheels, assembling and aligning
the flywheels, ready to slip into your cases. An example here
(flywheels for racing Chout).
[back to
top of page]
|
A set of sorry 1937 Sport
Scout cases in for repair. Apart from the broken drive side bearing nose,
the case was also cracked around the pinion side bearing housing. There's
a detail pic of that here. Ouch!
Same cases with Nose
Fix drive side bearing, and the pinion side repaired, and converted
to the 1948-style "straight through"
system that allows line honing of the bearings housings. The owner wanted
to deal with the cam bushings, cam follower pivots and push rod guides
himself. IPE welcomes such cooperative part-rebuilds, and I will help with
hints and tips if there is something you want to have a go at yourself.
This Chief cylinder got
a new nipple + PEEK manifold sealing cones.. |
This
nifty Quick Drain valve will make oil changes fun and easy, instead
of the usual oily mess. Fitting on the left in photo screws into your oil
tank (late Chief, 741 etc) instead of the drain plug. A spring loaded valve
stays closed, until you stick in the little T-shaped handle with the hose
on the end and twist it, locking it in the fitting and pressing the valve
open
at the same time. Point the hose somewhere convenient first. After the
oil has drained, just un-twist the handle/hose, refill tank (after having
changed the oil filter if you
run one - and if you don't, why not?), and be on your merry way.
Not
available anymore.
[back to
top of page]
|
Quick drain valve. |
1920
Powerplus mufflers are no longer available,
but I am leaving the photo here as reference. Has the correct cast part
with 36mm holes for front pipes. May fit earlier models too (I am not really
up to speed on the intricacies of the PP, but someone will no doubt enlighten
me; I will post any new info here). Not available
anymore. The person making these for me has retired and isn't
going to make any more. No front exhaust pipes either. This is a reminder
to get special parts like this while you can. You never know when it will
be too late. See also 101 exhaust system on the 101
page.
[back to
top of page]
|
Powerplus muffler. |
Did
your Hedstrom model wear out its crankpin in only 99 years? No reply
from the factory warranty department? (try telegraphing "Hendian, London"
in case you bought it through the UK agent). Luckily, IPE has new
crankpins
for 1912-15 Hedstrom big twins and singles. Not
available anymore.
Drive shaft
for 1914-15 models is around .81" (20.6mm) in diameter. The Prince drive
shaft below is almost identical, and can be used. The earlier models had
thinner shafts Not available anymore.
The pinion shaft,
with its integral pinion, is difficult and expensive to make, and 10 firm
orders with a deposit are needed before a batch can be produced. The diameter
of these also changed around 1914, I think. Not
available anymore.
[back to
top of page]
|
Hedstrom crankpin.
Orders
needed for production of Hedstrom pinion shafts as of December 27, 2011
= 10 |
|
IPE
also has flywheel shafts for your 1925-28 Prince single. Sold as
a set of 3 (crankpin, drive shaft and pinion shaft). If you need just one
of them that would probably be possible too, though. Nuts, keys and the
other necessary small parts are also available, but not - at the moment
- very much else for Prince, which is a pity as they are cool little bikes.
But the more you ask for Prince stuff the bigger the chance more parts
will be made. Not available anymore..
[back to
top of page]
|
Prince crankpin, drive-
and pinion shafts. |
Floats
for Schebler and Linkert carbs can be a problem. Both originally had
laquered cork floats. For many years you could only get soldered brass
floats for Linkerts and, as these are much heavier than the original cork
floats, it is hard to get the correct float level (1/4", or 6mm, in most
cases - with brass you are at 5/16" to 3/8", or 8-10mm). This can seriously
affect your enjoyment of your Indian.
I have no more old-school cork floats
Modern gasoline or petrol is very hard
on all kinds of laquer. As the formulation of the gas changes with the
season and the country (and sometimes seemingly for no clear reason at
all) you may have great luck with a traditional cork float one day just
to have it shrivel up and die on you next time you fill the tank.
The permanent fix is the black closed-cell
foam floats also in the photo. These are as light as cork, but resistant
to all known forms of modern gas, so you can get the correct float height
to let your Schebler or Linkert work as it should. The closed-cell foam
will not "suck in" gas (become gas logged) either. These floats are made
in small batches or, in some cases, to order, and may not always be in
stock for all models, so order early.
Available for Linkert (see part numbers
under photo to the right of here). ASK
[back to top
of page]
|
Cork Floats
Schebler H: P/N N1032C
Schebler DLX: P/N S914C
Linkert: P/N 102447C
Foam Floats
Schebler H: P/N N1032F
Schebler DLX: P/N S914F
Linkert: P/N 102447F
Handling
and fitting instructions for Schebler and Linkert foam floats.
Float needles and seats,
levers and other carb float related parts for Schebler DLX and Linkert
are also available. Not much is available for Schebler H, though, but ask
if you need anything and I shall see what I can do. Maybe I will even find
time, one day, to make a carb page with all the parts... |
Not
actually for sale by IPE, but I thought I'd post these nifty T-shirts
here anyway. Both can be bought on Lars Nielsen's "Salt Cracker" Indian
Land Speed Racing project page, which
is hosted by IPE since I am also one of the sponsors of this noble endeavour
(as far as we know, Lars is the first rider from Denmark to bring a bike
all the way to the salt - and an Indian at that!). The shirt saying "Salt
Cracker" is being sold to help raise funds for Lars' bike build and trip
to Bonneville later this year. The other shirt, with the "Dream Catcher"
streamliner on it, is sold to help raise funds for Rick "Rocky" Dillinger's
Indian powered streamliner. To read more about Dream Catcher, go to Rocky's
Iron Wigwam website.
There is also a great story
in the 2008 VI on how the first trip to Bonneville went for the Dream Catcher
crew. And Lars' Salt Cracker page, with the ongoing story of how his bike
is being built, is here. Please support
these great people if you can - and get some really neat T-shirts at the
same time! Go here to buy a shirt (or two).
Not
available anymore.
There's also a few VI shirts left
(see
Special Offers page).
[back to
top of page]
|
Dream Catcher Indian Land
Speed Racing T. |
Salt Cracker Indian Land
Speed Racing T. |
|
PEEK
is a wonderful space-age hard and heat resistant plastic material
that does what the brass of original Wigwam manifold sealing cones don't.
Seal, that is! Brass work hardens and the harder it becomes, the tighter
the hapless Indian owner tweaks his manifold nuts in a hopeless attempt
to cure his manifold of the leaks that are so typical of this system, and
responsible for so many hard-starting, hot-running and generally miserable
Indians. Sorry about the lyrical intro, but this stuff really works.
Pioneered by Cotten of Liberty Motorcycle
Specialties, and now used around the world, PEEK has turned out to be THE
fix for leaky Indian manifolds. Finished cast PEEK sealing cones are now
available. The problem with that is that not two old - or maybe even new
reproduction - Indian manifolds are the same size, and they are frequently
so chewed up by excessive nut-tightening that they need to be cut smooth
again, making them further undersize. The sealing cones rely on a tight
fit to do their job, so one size does not fit all. I am not saying this
to badmouth the cast cones (they are very nicely made, they just don't
fit all manifolds), and if you have a new manifold that fit the cast cones
snugly, I suggest you go with these, as they are cheaper than the custom
cut version.
IPE cuts PEEK cones to the actual size
of your manifold. If you have access to a lathe, cleaning up the ends of
your manifold is not a big job. If not, IPE can do it for you and cut cones
to fit. Peek cones can be reused many times.
Order P/N 38125P for Chief 1936-52.
Order P/N 326B22P for 101 and 741.
Order P/N 40165P for Sport Scout
1936-42.
And remember that I need an accurate diameter
measurement of the ends of your (fresh or cleaned-up) manifold - or, better,
the manifold itself - to be able to make them the right size. Set
of 2: ASK
Machining manifold
ends back to round and smooth, usually costs - including custom made PEEK
sealing cones - ASK
[back to
top of page]
|
A small selection of manifolds
having had their ends cleaned up (lathe cut back to cylindrical and smooth),
and PEEK cones cut to fit at IPE. This can be done on most Indian V-Twin
manifolds, and is a huge improvement over the stock brass cones. If you
lathe cut your manifold yourself, you can get an idea from the photo of
the required finish and degree of accuracy (both need to be very good).
In case you wonder what the aluminum manifold to the right is, the answer
is a Chief manifold cut about to fit modified 741 cylinders (and a BIG
carb).
Many
(many!) Indians suffer from smal or big manifold leaks, and the consequences
range from hard starting to complete meltdown. There is a good VI article
by Cotten here
on testing for manifold leaks. Do yourself (and not least your Indian)
a favor and read it. Please? |
All
Prices in Euros
Ordering
or questions: info@indianpartseurope.com
For more information on ordering, shipping, payment and general mail order
info, look here |
More
manifold stuff. This one is a custom manifold to fit a Keihin CV carb
on your 1940-53 Chief. The Keihin (which came stock on most of the opposition's
models from the 1990's until fuel injection took over recently), has turned
out to work pretty good on both Chiefs and Scouts. Jim Mosher has done
a lot of research into this, which you can read about here.
Jim has various kits and parts for the CV. IPE has some parts too, including
jet kits, see the Chief parts page. These
manifolds, which eliminate adapters and their potential leaks, are satin
nickel plated, and come with chrome or cadmium plated nuts and custom cut
PEEK cones, ready to bolt on. They may be useful for fitting different
carbs too (Mikuni?). If you want to look into this, the outside diameter
of the carb end of the manifold is about 45.5mm and the hole a little less
than 40mm. Not available anymore. Again,
if you see parts you know you are going to need, get them while you can.
You never know when it will be too late. If there is enough interest, I
may conside making a few of them in aluminum (like the 741
CV manifolds). Let me know if you need one...
[back to
top of page]
|
Manifold for Keihin CV carb
on Chief. |
If
you want something a bit more sophisticated than the stock throttle grip,
this neat internal throttle setup might be the ticket. Apart from
working smoother than anything but a really well fettled and lubed stock
throttle, this one also has a bit more travel which can be very useful
if you run something like a Dell'Orto, Mikuni or Keihin CV carb. Of course
it is also designed for "soft" modern control cable (which all of these
carbs use), and while you can convert the stock trottle to modern cable,
this one comes already converted. Its main justification might howver be
if you want to fit different handlebars to your Indian and don't want to
have to work on the end to take a stock Indian throttle grip (if you want
to do that, I have all the parts you will need, but that's another story).
To fit the new thottle grip, you cut about 4" (or 100mm) - but read the
instructions first! - off your chosen handlebars and fasten the throttle
grip with a set screw (or a blob of weld). If you want to use Indian rubber
grips, you may have to weld on a bit of tube to extend the throttle (or
cut down the rubber). P/N INTHR1. Not available
anymore.
[back to
top of page]
|
Modern internal throttle
from IPE.
Click
photos to enlarge |
Original
Chopper
Throttle kit from IPE. Wow! Well, maybe not so many Indian Choppers
around these days, but this nifty little kit was made back in the day for
those who wanted to combine a modern throttle and soft control cable with
their old Linkert carb (Cotten at Liberty Motorcycle Specialties in
Illinois, USA, is the world's go-to guy for Linkert and Schebler rebuilds;
if your Linkert needs work contact him on liberty@npoint.net).
I guess this kit works even if your Indian isn't really a chopper and you
just want to run a Linkert with modern throttle and cable. Genuine New
Old Stock. P/N CHOP1. ASK
[back to
top of page] |
Chopper throttle kit! |
Here's
some nice shiny stainless steel parts from IPE |
- |
Stainless valve spring covers
and pushrod guides for 1940-53 Chief - see the Chief
page. |
Stainless taper roller steering
head bearings for 101, more on the 101 page. |
Stainless valve spring covers
and pushrod guides are also available for 741 - see the 741
page. |
Stainless valve covers for
101 - see the 101 page. |
[back
to top of page] |
|
The Wigwam never
really came up with a great engine (crank case) breathing system.
On the Sport Scouts is seems they tried something new every year. On the
Chief they stuck with the breather tube on the cam cover, supplying different
breather disc valves according to how fast the customer planned to go (the
difference was whether there was a hole in the disc, allowing air back
into the engine when the pistons went up, lessening the vacuum in the cases,
and the size of these holes). In practical terms, the stock breather system
(no matter which disc you use, but if you must have a stock system use
the disc with no hole) is not enough for modern traffic. Not enough air
can get out, resulting in pressurized crank cases and oily Indians. The
first serious modern attempt to fix this was the Moto Valve, presented
on the VI back in 1999. This went a long way to solve the problem. Later
came various adaptations of the "KrankVent", used on the opposition's bikes
(you know, the "Pigs", or whatever it is they call them). These work really
well, but they can be a bit noisy (not the pigs, the KVs). The latest is
more or less a black plastic version of the KV, which also works well,
and doesn't make any noise. For a Chief you just fit it on the end of the
stock cam cover breather tube (coupling hose included in kit), after having
removed the stock breather disc (new gasket also included in kit). The
plastic valve will hide under your chain/kicker, and not look too out of
place. On a 741 you can also fit it to the stock breather tube, after having
removed the disc. I also have adapters to fit it in the drive side timing
hole if anyone needs that. Plastic breather no longer available - aluminum
KrankVent kits in stock. P/N BRTVLV. Not
available anymore - but I now have some alternatives - ASK
[back to
top of page]
|
Plastic breather valve no
longer available. I am going back to the aluminum Krank Vents. Pictures
and details soon, but ask if you need one before I get to it. The fitting
details remain the same.
See above..
Click
photos to enlarge |
Know
your Indian! IPE has both the original 1951 Wigwam issue Riders Instruction
Book (P/N INSTBK1), and an updated version by Mike Tomas (P/N
INSTBK2).Not available anymore.
Both are neat and useful, probably with the new edition having the edge
in usefulness. Mainly for late Chief, but much of it applies to all Indians.
Old book ASK.
IPE also has pretty much any other Indian parts book or manual you will
ever need, either in stock or to order. I will try to make a list soon.
[back to
top of page]
|
Old and new Rider's Instruction
Books. |
Valve
guide seals on Indians? Yes, it actually makes sense. Indian valve
guides tend to wear out fast, and they often pass a lot of oil into the
combustion chambers where it builds up on the pistons, and sometimes comes
loose and scratches up the cylinder walls. Several well-known long-distance
Indian riders (among them Dave
Kilgore) have used these seals for years with very good results. I haven't
tried them myself, but will be fitting them in 4 or 5 Chief engines for
the 2009 season, and will try to report back next time one of these engines
is torn down for inspection. The seals are made of rubber with a spring
clip and teflon liner (which doesn't stop the oil from getting into the
guide, merely meters it in reasonable quantities rather than the usual
gush). They fit nicely on stock 1938-53 and most after market Chief valve
guides.
Not available anymore.
[back to
top of page] |
Teflon-lined valve guide
seals from IPE (who also has these super nice hard-chromed stainless Chief
valves and really good cast iron guides for your 1938-53 Chief!) |
Here's
some nifty new Scout parts from IPE |
- |
KING clutch kit for 1920-27
Scout - will also fit Super-X - more on the KING
Clutch page. |
-
Parts for Bosch model D
magneto/generator, more on the 101 page. |
Pinion side bearing housing
for line honing - more on the 741 page. |
"Nose Fix" for broken 741
drive side bearing housings - see 741 page. |
[back
to top of page] |
|
IPE also has traditional
cloth-covered
wire in a selection of becoming colors. Pretty good ready-made wiring
harnesses for most late model Indians are available (also from IPE), but
as far as I know nobody makes anything for 101s and other early models
(which is what I mainly use it for). I will try to get my crayons out and
draw a wiring diagram for the 101 soon, but if you need it before I get
around to it just email me. Anyway, cloth covered wire, P/N CLWIR,
in the colors you see in the photo, which is what I have in stock at the
moment Not available anymore.
[back to
top of page]
|
Click
photos to enlarge
Cloth-covered wire from
IPE (It's modern stuff underneath the cloth, so it will work well while
looking the part). |
Another
small item here. Batteries don't like vibration, and rubber mounting
them helps to some extent. This little foam rubber mat is a step further.
You can cut off a piece to put under the battery, and one to go under the
frog clamp on top, still leaving some bits over to put wherever the battery
touches the bike. Self adhesive (peel the backing paper off and stick it
on)
Size 20cm x 12.5cm (or 7-3/4" x 4-3/4"),
Not
available anymore.
[back to
top of page]
|
Self adhesive battery mat. |
Among
those who like to personalize their Indians, moving the saddle back and
down is often one of the first jobs on the list (hey, who needs comfort
when you can look cool!). The simple, but rather brutal, way is to chop
off the stock saddle mount on the frame and weld it on further back. A
more humane solution is the nifty "double-T" seen here
(basically an extra, modified saddle T used to move the pivot for the regular
T back without cutting the frame - probably easier to look at the photos
than trying to follow my description). However, for a really sleek look
with good functionality (few things are worse than sloppy saddle pivots,
making it feel like the wheels of the bike have come loose), this stainless
saddle bracket with slop-free bronze bushings, and a little tab to
weld to the frame, takes some beating. P/N SBRCK1, Not
available anymore. You will of course
need springs too, and I can help with a couple of different kinds if you
can't find suitable springs locally.
[back to
top of page]
|
Stainless saddle bracket
with bronze bushings. Photo shows how the bracket bolts onto an aftermarket
Indian saddle. Little dark tab welds to frame. This Chief
uses the bracket (with a super cool saddle I had made, and regret letting
go now that I look at the photos again!). |
K&N
is the first name in automotive air filtration, and now you can have a
K&N
air filter on your Indian. These filters rely on an oiled filtering
element to catch the dust. Filters come pre-oiled from the factory, but
P/N
IPEKN0 is a "recharger" kit, with filter cleaner and filter oil (enough
for many filters), allowing you to reuse your K&N many times.
Not
available anymore.
P/N IPEKN1
is a filter element that fits the Indian 1940-51 standard center-screw
air cleaner (used on Chief, Scout and Four, to the left in the photo),
replacing the stock filter element. Not
available anymore.
P/N IPEKN2
is the same element but with a neat backing plate that allows it to fit
the 1952-53 Chief "Raceway" air cleaner (to the right in the photo),
which is also often fitted to other years and models. Not
available anymore. When you (or your grandchildren;
remember that the filter elements can be cleaned, re-oiled and reused many
times) need a replacement element, just order a IPEKN1 and continue to
use the backing plate.
[back to
top of page]
|
K&N air filters from
IPE. |
All
Prices in Euros
Ordering or questions:
info@indianpartseurope.com
For more information
on prices, ordering, payment,
shipping and
general mail order info, look here |
|
|