Index
of New Parts 2009 (so far), in alphabetical order. Fat blue text links
to parts on this page. Parts with fat black text are on other pages (click
thin blue links to go there).
741 manual and parts
book on CD (741 page).
Battery
mat (all models).
Books for early models
(101 page)
Bosch
magneto parts (101).
Breather
valve (Chief and other models).
Chopper
Linkert cable kit (most models).
Cloth-covered
wire.
Clutch
for 1920-27 Scout and Super-X.
Custom
saddle bracket.
Cylinders (Chief
page).
Drive
side bearing Nose Fix (741 and Sport Scout).
Floats
for Schebler and Linkert carbs, cork and closed-cell foam.
Handlebar parts (101
page).
Hedstrom
crankpin.
Internal
throttle grip.
New James gaskets
(James page).
Jockey shifters (Chief
page).
K&N
air filters (1940-53).
Keihin
CV manifold (Chief).
Keihin CV manifold
for 741 - coming soon (741 page).
Keihin CV jet kit
and
parts (Chief page).
Leaf spring forks
(Chief page).
Manifold (Chief
page).
Needles for Schebler
DLX carbs (101 page).
Oil filters (Chief
& 741 pages).
PEEK
manifold sealing cones (all models).
Pinion
housing for line honing (741 and Sport Scout).
Points for Bosch
magneto (101 page).
Powerplus
muffler.
Prince
crankpin, pinion- and drive shafts.
Pushrod
guides, stainless (741)
Pushrod
guides, stainless (Chief)
Quick
Drain oil valve (Chief etc).
Riders
Handbook, new edition (Chief).
Shifter knobs (Chief
page).
Stroker Scout parts
(stroker page).
Taper
roller st/hd bearing kit.
Tappet adjusting
nuts (741 page).
T-Shirts,
Land Speed Racing.
Valve
covers, stainless (101).
Valve
covers, stainless (741).
Valve
covers, s/s (Chief).
Valve
guide seals (Chief).
|
It
has been a while since I updated the old IPE website, and I have a ton
of new parts to announce. Here is a selection of them (there's more new
parts on the Chief, 741 and 101 pages). More will be added on a regular
basis.
--
|
Click
photos to enlarge |
This
nifty Quick Drain valve will make oil changes fun and easy, instead
of the usual oily mess. Fitting on the left in photo screws into your oil
tank (late Chief, 741 etc) instead of the drain plug. A spring loaded valve
stays closed, until you stick in the little T-shaped handle with the hose
on the end and twist it, locking it in the fitting and pressing the valve
open at the same time. Point the hose somewhere convenient first. After
the oil has drained, just un-twist the handle/hose, refill tank (after
having changed the oil filter
if you run one - and if you don't, why not?), and be on your merry way.
P/N
QUICKY. EUR50.00 (EU), EUR40.00 (World).
[back to
top of page] |
Quick drain valve. |
1920
Powerplus mufflers are now available to special order. Has the correct
cast part with 36mm holes for front pipes. May fit earlier models too (I
am not really up to speed on the intricacies of the PP, but someone will
no doubt enlighten me; I will post any new information here). Sorry,
no front exhaust pipes. P/N PPMUFL. EUR700.00
(EU), EUR560.00 (World).
See also 101 exhaust system on the 101
page.
[back to
top of page] |
Powerplus muffler. |
| Did
your Hedstrom model wear out its crankpin in only 99 years? No reply
from the factory warranty department? (try telegraphing "Hendian, London"
in case you bought it through the UK agent).
Luckily, IPE has
new crankpins for 1910-15 Hedstrom big twins and singles.
For the drive shaft,
the Prince drive shaft below is almost identical, and could probably be
made to work. The pinion shaft, with its integral pinion, is difficult
and expensive to make, and 10 firm orders with a deposit are needed before
a batch can be produced. Estimated price EUR300.00 (EU), EUR240.00 (World).
Email me if interested.
[back to
top of page] |
Hedstrom crankpin.
| Orders
needed for production of Hedstrom pinion shafts as of June 7, 2009 = 10 |
|
IPE
also has flywheel shafts for your 1925-28 Prince single. Sold as
a set of 3 (crankpin, drive shaft and pinion shaft). If you need just one
of them that would probably be possible too, though. Nuts, keys and the
other necessary small parts are also available, but not - at the moment
- very much else for Prince, which is a pity as they are cool little bikes.
But the more you ask for Prince stuff the bigger the chance more parts
will be made. P/N PRSHFT. EUR300.00 (EU),
EUR240.00 (World).
[back to
top of page] |
Prince crankpin, drive-
and pinion shafts. |
| Floats
for Schebler and Linkert carbs can be a problem. Both originally had
laquered cork floats. For many years you could only get soldered brass
floats for Linkerts and, as these are much heavier than the original cork
floats, it is hard to get the correct float level (1/4", or 6mm, in most
cases - with brass you are at 5/16" to 3/8", or 8-10mm). This can seriously
affect your enjoyment of your Indian.
I have old-school cork floats for
Schebler H (temporarily sold out, so not in the photo), Schebler DLX and
Linkert (see part numbers under photo). EUR30.00
(EU), EUR24.00 (World).
However - and please note this carefully
- modern gasoline or petrol is very hard on all kinds of laquer. As the
formulation of the gas changes with the season and the country (and sometimes
seemingly for no clear reason at all) you may have great luck with a traditional
cork float one day just to have it shrivel up and die on you next time
you fill the tank.
The permanent fix is the black closed-cell
foam floats also in the photo. These are as light as cork, but resistant
to all known forms of modern gas, so you can get the correct float height
to let your Schebler or Linkert work as it should. The closed-cell foam
will not "suck in" gas (become gas logged) either. Available for Schebler
H and DLX, and Linkert (see part numbers under photo). EUR55.00
(EU), EUR44.00 (World).
If you insist, I
also have brass floats for Linkerts. P/N 102447B. EUR55.00
(EU), EUR44.00 (World).
[back to
top of page] |
Cork Floats
Schebler H: P/N N1032C
Schebler DLX: P/N S914C
Linkert: P/N 102447C
Foam Floats
Schebler H: P/N N1032F
Schebler DLX: P/N S914F
Linkert: P/N 102447F
Handling
and fitting instructions for Schebler and Linkert foam floats.
Float needles and seats,
levers and other carb float related parts for Schebler DLX and Linkert
are also available. Not much is available for Schebler H, though, but ask
if you need anything and I shall see what I can do. Maybe I will even find
time, one day, to make a carb page with all the parts... |
| Not
actually for sale by IPE, but I thought I'd post these nifty T-shirts
here anyway. Both can be bought on Lars Nielsen's "Salt Cracker" Indian
Land Speed Racing project page, which
is hosted by IPE since I am also one of the sponsors of this noble endeavour
(as far as we know, Lars is the first rider from Denmark to bring a bike
all the way to the salt - and an Indian at that!). The shirt saying "Salt
Cracker" is being sold to help raise funds for Lars' bike build and trip
to Bonneville later this year. The other shirt, with the "Dream Catcher"
streamliner on it, is sold to help raise funds for Rick "Rocky" Dillinger's
Indian powered streamliner. To read more about Dream Catcher, go to Rocky's
Iron Wigwam website.
There is also a great story
in the 2008 VI on how the first trip to Bonneville went for the Dream Catcher
crew. And Lars' Salt Cracker page, with the ongoing story of how his bike
is being built, is here. Please support
these great people if you can - and get some really neat T-shirts at the
same time! Go here to buy a shirt (or two).
There's also a few VI shirts left
(see
Special Offers page).
[back to
top of page] |
Dream Catcher Indian Land
Speed Racing T. |
Salt Cracker Indian Land
Speed Racing T. |
|
| PEEK
is a wonderful space-age hard and heat resistant plastic material
that does what the brass of original Wigwam manifold sealing cones don't.
Seal, that is! Brass work hardens and the harder it becomes, the tighter
the hapless Indian owner tweaks his manifold nuts in a hopeless attempt
to cure his manifold of the leaks that are so typical of this system, and
responsible for so many hard-starting, hot-running and generally miserable
Indians. Sorry about the lyrical intro, but this stuff really works.
Pioneered by Cotten of Liberty Motorcycle
Specialties, and now used around the world, PEEK has turned out to be THE
fix for leaky Indian manifolds. Finished cast PEEK sealing cones are now
available. The problem with that is that not two old - or maybe even new
reproduction - Indian manifolds are the same size, and they are frequently
so chewed up by excessive nut-tightening that they need to be cut smooth
again, making them further undersize. The sealing cones rely on a tight
fit to do their job, so one size does not fit all. I am not saying this
to badmouth the cast cones (they are very nicely made, they just don't
fit all manifolds), and if you have a new manifold that fit the cast cones
snugly, I suggest you go with these, as they are cheaper than the custom
cut version.
IPE cuts PEEK cones to the actual size
of your manifold. If you have access to a lathe, cleaning up the ends of
your manifold is not a big job. If not, IPE can do it for you and cut cones
to fit. Peek cones can be reused many times.
Order P/N 38125P for Chief 1936-52.
Order P/N 326B22P for 101 and 741.
Order P/N 40165P for Sport Scout
1936-42.
And remember that I need an accurate diameter
measurement of the ends of your (fresh or cleaned-up) manifold - or, better,
the manifold itself - to be able to make them the right size. Set
of 2: EUR80.00 (EU), EUR64.00 (World).
[back to
top of page] |
A small selection of manifolds
having had their ends cleaned up (lathe cut back to cylindrical and smooth),
and PEEK cones cut to fit at IPE. This can be done on most Indian V-Twin
manifolds, and is a huge improvement over the stock brass cones. If you
lathe cut your manifold yourself, you can get an idea from the photo of
the required finish and degree of accuracy (both need to be very good).
In case you wonder what the aluminum manifold to the right is, the answer
is a Chief manifold cut about to fit modified 741 cylinders (and a BIG
carb).
Many (many!) Indians suffer
from smal or big manifold leaks, and the consequences range from hard starting
to complete meltdown. There is a good VI article by Cotten here
on testing for manifold leaks. Do yourself (and not least your Indian)
a favor and read it. Please?
All
Prices in Euros
Ordering
or questions: info@indianpartseurope.com
For more information on ordering, shipping, payment and general mail order
info, look here |
More
manifold stuff. This one is a custom manifold to fit a Keihin CV carb
on your 1940-53 Chief. The Keihin (which came stock on most of the opposition's
models from the 1990's until fuel injection took over recently), has turned
out to work pretty good on both Chiefs and Scouts. Jim Mosher has done
a lot of research into this, which you can read about here.
Jim has various kits and parts for the CV. IPE has some parts too, including
jet kits, see the Chief parts page. These
manifolds, which eliminate adapters and their potential leaks, are satin
nickel plated, and come with chrome or cadmium plated nuts and custom cut
PEEK cones, ready to bolt on. P/N CVMAN1. EUR300.00
(EU), EUR240.00 (World). They may be useful for fitting different
carbs too (Mikuni?). If you want to look into this, the outside diameter
of the carb end of the manifold is about 45.5mm and the hole a little less
than 40mm.
[back to
top of page] |
Manifold for Keihin CV carb
on Chief. |
If
you want something a bit more sophisticated than the stock throttle grip,
this neat internal throttle setup might be the ticket. Apart from
working smoother than anything but a really well fettled and lubed stock
throttle, this one also has a bit more travel which can be very useful
if you run something like a Dell'Orto, Mikuni or Keihin CV carb. Of course
it is also designed for "soft" modern control cable (which all of these
carbs use), and while you can convert the stock trottle to modern cable,
this one comes already converted. Its main justification might howver be
if you want to fit different handlebars to your Indian and don't want to
have to work on the end to take a stock Indian throttle grip (if you want
to do that, I have all the parts you will need, but that's another story).
To fit the new thottle grip, you cut about 4" (or 100mm) - but read the
instructions first! - off your chosen handlebars and fasten the throttle
grip with a set screw (or a blob of weld). If you want to use Indian rubber
grips, you may have to weld on a bit of tube to extend the throttle (or
cut down the rubber). P/N INTHR1. EUR165.00
(EU), EUR132.00 (World).
[back to
top of page] |
Modern internal throttle
from IPE.
Click
photos to enlarge |
Original
Chopper
Throttle kit from IPE. Wow! Well, maybe not so many Indian Choppers
around these days, but this nifty little kit was made back in the day for
those who wanted to combine a modern throttle and soft control cable with
their old Linkert carb (Cotten at Liberty Motorcycle Specialties in
Illinois, USA, is the world's go-to guy for Linkert and Schebler rebuilds;
if your Linkert needs work contact him on liberty@npoint.net).
I guess this kit works even if your Indian isn't really a chopper and you
just want to run a Linkert with modern throttle and cable. Genuine New
Old Stock. P/N CHOP1. EUR12.50 (EU), EUR10.00
(World).
[back to
top of page] |
Chopper throttle kit! |
| Here's
some nice shiny stainless steel parts from IPE |
- |
Stainless valve spring covers
and pushrod guides for 1940-53 Chief - see the Chief
page. |
Stainless taper roller steering
head bearings for 101, more on the 101 page. |
Stainless valve spring covers
and pushrod guides are also available for 741 - see the 741
page. |
Stainless valve covers for
101 - see the 101 page. |
| [back
to top of page] |
|
The Wigwam never
really came up with a great engine (crank case) breathing system.
On the Sport Scouts is seems they tried something new every year. On the
Chief they stuck with the breather tube on the cam cover, supplying different
breather disc valves according to how fast the customer planned to go (the
difference was whether there was a hole in the disc, allowing air back
into the engine when the pistons went up, lessening the vacuum in the cases,
and the size of these holes). In practical terms, the stock breather system
(no matter which disc you use, but if you must have a stock system use
the disc with no hole) is not enough for modern traffic. Not enough air
can get out, resulting in pressurized crank cases and oily Indians. The
first serious modern attempt to fix this was the Moto Valve, presented
on the VI back in 1999. This went a long way to solve the problem. Later
came various adaptations of the "KrankVent", used on the opposition's bikes
(you know, the "Pigs", or whatever it is they call them). These seem to
work well enough, but they are noisy (not the pigs, the KVs). The latest
is more or less a black plastic version of the KV, which also works well,
and doesn't make any noise. For a Chief you just fit it on the end of the
stock cam cover breather tube (coupling hose included in kit), after having
removed the stock breather disc (new gasket also included in kit). The
plastic valve will hide under your chain/kicker, and not look too out of
place. On a 741 you can also fit it to the stock breather tube, after having
removed the disc. I also have adapters to fit it in the drive side timing
hole if anyone needs that. P/N BRTH01. EUR50.00
(EU), EUR40.00 (World).
[back to
top of page] |
Silent Breather valve kit
with Chief breather tube (not included).
Better view.
Click
photos to enlarge |
Know
your Indian! IPE has both the original 1951 Wigwam issue Riders Instruction
Book (P/N INSTBK1), and an updated version by Mike Tomas (P/N
INSTBK2). Both are neat and useful, probably with the new edition having
the edge in usefulness. Mainly for late Chief, but much of it applies to
all Indians. Old book EUR12.50 (EU), EUR10.00
(World). New book EUR20.00
(EU), EUR16.00 (World). IPE also has pretty
much any other Indian parts book or manual you will ever need, either in
stock or to order. I will try to make a list soon.
[back to
top of page] |
Old and new Rider's Instruction
Books. |
Valve
guide seals on Indians? Yes, it actually makes sense. Indian valve
guides tend to wear out fast, and they often pass a lot of oil into the
combustion chambers where it builds up on the pistons, and sometimes come
loose and scratch up the cylinder walls. Several well-known long-distance
Indian riders (among them Dave
Kilgore) have used these seals for years with very good results. I haven't
tried them myself, but will be fitting them in 4 or 5 Chief engines for
the 2009 season, and will try to report back next time one of these engines
is torn down for inspection. The seals are made of rubber with a spring
clip and teflon liner (which doesn't stop the oil from getting into the
guide, merely meters it in reasonable quantities rather than the usual
gush). They fit nicely on stock 1938-53 and most after market Chief valve
guides.
P/N VGSEAL. Set of 4 EUR16.00 (EU),
EUR12.80 (World).
[back to
top of page] |
Teflon-lined valve guide
seals from IPE (who also has these super nice hard-chromed stainless Chief
valves and really good cast iron guides for your 1938-53 Chief!) |
| Here's
some nifty new Scout parts from IPE |
- |
KING clutch kit for 1920-27
Scout - will also fit Super-X - more on the KING
Clutch page. |
-
Parts for Bosch model D
magneto/generator, more on the 101 page. |
Pinion side bearing housing
for line honing - more on the 741 page. |
"Nose Fix" for broken 741
drive side bearing housings - see 741 page. |
| [back
to top of page] |
|
IPE also has traditional
cloth-covered
wire in a selection of becoming colors. Pretty good ready-made wiring
harnesses for most late model Indians are available (also from IPE), but
as far as I know nobody makes anything for 101s and other early models
(which is what I mainly use it for). I will try to get my crayons out and
draw a wiring diagram for the 101 soon, but if you need it before I get
around to it just email me. Anyway, cloth covered wire, P/N CLWIR,
in the colors you see in the photo, which is what I have in stock at the
moment, costs EUR3.00 (EU), EUR2.40 (World)
per meter (about 3 ft). I forgot to take a photo, but I also have black
cloth-covered spark plug wire (modern isolated copper-core wire inside),
P/N
CLPLW,
EUR5.00 (EU), EUR4.00 (World)
per meter.
[back to
top of page] |
Click
photos to enlarge
Cloth-covered wire from
IPE (It's modern stuff underneath the cloth, so it will work well while
looking the part).
|
Another
small item here. Batteries don't like vibration, and rubber mounting
them helps to some extent. This little foam rubber mat is a step further.
You can cut off a piece to put under the battery, and one to go under the
frog clamp on top, still leaving some bits over to put wherever the battery
touches the bike. Self adhesive (peel the backing paper off and stick it
on)
Size 20cm x 12.5cm (or 7-3/4" x 4-3/4"),
P/N
BATMAT, EUR5.00 (EU), EUR4.00 (World).
[back to
top of page] |
Self adhesive battery mat. |
Among
those who like to personalize their Indians, moving the saddle back and
down is often one of the first jobs on the list (hey, who needs comfort
when you can look cool!). The simple, but rather brutal, way is to chop
off the stock saddle mount on the frame and weld it on further back. A
more humane solution is the nifty "double-T" seen here
(basically an extra, modified saddle T used to move the pivot for the regular
T back without cutting the frame - probably easier to look at the photos
than trying to follow my description). However, for a really sleek look
with good functionality (few things are worse than sloppy saddle pivots,
making it feel like the wheels of the bike have come loose), this stainless
saddle bracket with slop-free bronze bushings, and a little tab to
weld to the frame, takes some beating. P/N SBRCK1, EUR150.00
(EU), EUR120.00 (World). You will of course
need springs too, and I can help with a couple of different kinds if you
can't find suitable springs locally.
[back to
top of page] |
Stainless saddle bracket
with bronze bushings. Photo shows how the bracket bolts onto an aftermarket
Indian saddle. Little dark tab welds to frame. This Chief
uses the bracket (with a super cool saddle I had made, and regret letting
go now that I look at the photos again!). |
| K&N
is the first name in automotive air filtration, and now you can have a
K&N
air filter on your Indian. These filters rely on an oiled filtering
element to catch the dust. Filters come pre-oiled from the factory, but
P/N
IPEKN0 is a "recharger" kit, with filter cleaner and filter oil (enough
for many filters), allowing you to reuse your K&N many times.
EUR20.00
(EU), EUR16.00 (World).
P/N IPEKN1
is a filter element that fits the Indian 1940-51 standard center-screw
air cleaner (used on Chief, Scout and Four, to the left in the photo),
replacing the stock filter element. EUR60.00
(EU), EUR48.00 (World).
P/N IPEKN2
is the same element but with a neat backing plate that allows it to fit
the 1952-53 Chief "Raceway" air cleaner (to the right in the photo),
which is also often fitted to other years and models. EUR110.00
(EU), EUR88.00 (World). When you (or your
grandchildren; remember that the filter elements can be cleaned, re-oiled
and reused many times) need a replacement element, just order a IPEKN1
and continue to use the backing plate.
[back to
top of page] |
K&N air filters from
IPE. |
| All
Prices in Euros
Ordering or questions:
info@indianpartseurope.com
For more information
on prices, ordering, payment,
shipping and
general mail order info, look here |
|
|