Last updated 26 march 2024
I have pretty much all parts - to order if not in stock - for Chief from the 1930s to 1953, 741 and Sport Scout + some parts for other models.
I can't always have everything in stock, but try to have the most common parts to keep running Indians on the road. For bigger Indian projects we need to make a plan, which also gives me time to get your parts ready.

The pictures here show a fairly representative selection of parts
recently sent to customers

The pictures are just examples. I can help with a lot more than what you see here.

More pictures will be added on top whenever I have some good ones. So their order will be a little random. But together they should give you an idea of what I do.

Any questions, send me an email

Click pix to really see the parts!

There is a little tech info for some of the parts.

< This picture shows engine, transmission, clutch and oil pump parts for a 1946 Indian Chief project.

Many of the parts in the picture are the same for Chiefs from the mid-1930s up, and similar for 741 and Sport Scout, but with variations between years and models.

I know the details - or can look them up in the books if I forget :-) and will help you get the right parts for your Indian.

The distributor used on 1936-53 Indian v-twins looks more complicated than it is (lots of small parts!). Explanation here.

Pic above shows the electrical parts.

<- Pic to the left shows the mechanical parts.

See also manual advance parts below.

Here is how the points parts go together. Insert shows the central terminal post with its very important insulation washers; one each side of the wall of the distributor body.

Sometimes only a single or a few parts are needed. Front brake cable adjuster screw and lock nut, and the clevis (fork) with its several parts, was used on 1936-42 Chief, Sport Scout, Junior Scout and Four. Similar front brake parts for other years and models also available.
<- Placeholder pic; just because :-)
Pic by Markus W
Sorry about the messy pic. A detail with the generator drive pulley on the primary cover is that there isn't clearance for changing the belt without removing the pulley - unless you cut one flange like this. Ask if in doubt. Preferably before cutting if you're not sure!

Someone showed me the battery frog - or battery hold down clamp - from his 1947 Chief and asked if it would fit his 741 project. See my answer. Chief up to 1939 used a different system with straps, this clamp 1940-51, and another for 1952-53. Sport Scout 1934-39 and 1940-42 two different clamps. More 741 battery parts below.

Snake! - or a Corbin speedo cable 1931-42 most models (different lengths). Authentic outside, modern cable inside. Custom made to special order so expect some delivery time.

Generator drive parts for a late 30's Chief. These parts (except the belt) are more or less the same for all Chiefs from sometime in the 1930s (I will look it up... 1934 I think) to 1953. There are some options with the bushings that we need to discuss.

A customer with an early Scout had to get into his clutch. 24C55 gasket. I still have a few 1920s and 101 gaskets but probably won't get more when they are gone. The six lock washers for the clutch spring plate nuts, and big lock washer for the clutch drum nut in the middle fit all twins from 1920-53 and are usually in stock.

All twins used a sump valve from 1938-47. 
In late 1947 it changed to this flywheel scraper, which was made as part of the crankcase in 1948-53. I fit this to all engines I can, including 741s, to replace the often troublesome sump valve. The filter fitting left is the correct one to use, the fitting center is just shown as an alternative. Other oil lines below.

Clutch parts. Most of these are the same for all Indian twins from the 1920s-up, but a few like the primary cover "nut" top left, clutch release worm middle row left, and lever nuts (in pic for customer to choose from; they are all 1/2"-24 thread and interchangeable) came in a few versions over the years.
Pic by Max R
So... say you want to go to Morocco on your Chief. What spare parts should you bring?
I suggested: Distributor cap and rotor + a clip (they can break). Points and condenser. Head gaskets (solid copper are most "blow-out proof"). Chain link. Kickstarter washer and lock ring. If the kicker spring breaks a bungee cord can be used. JB-Weld/Araldite for leaky fuel or oil lines (or emergency dentistry!). Iron wire, cable strips and gaffa tape. ->

Sahara spare parts!
Not in pic, but solid copper head gaskets were also brought along on the trip.

Chief cylinder head bracket and spark plug wire tube. Bracket and minor hardware varies between models, but the tube was used on most Indian twins from the mid 1930s up. Chrome bracket fits on rear tank bolt and saves your leg from getting zapped by the rear spark plug!

Chief primary drive parts. Engine sprocket with cork seal. The chain tensioner shoe, its lever and shaft and the lock nut for the tensioner screw are different on rigid frame (in pic here) and 1941-53 spring frame models (below). Most other parts are the same. On 741 and Sport Scout the parts are similar but most are different in detail.

Fitting the cork seal. Put it in boiling water to soften it. Carefully fit it on the sprocket. Put sprocket seal-down on a newspaper to dry overnight. With relatively fine sand paper on a flat plate, sand down the dry cork to stand *just* above the surface of the sprocket. 

NOTE: Select the thickness of the big thrust washer behind the sprocket for correct crank end play (see manual) before fitting the cork.

Instrument panel mounting parts for 1938-47 Chief. Part in the center is a shim (may need more than one) to fine tune panel height. Part to the right is a replacement cast part for frame repair.

1937-39 Chief wheel hub parts. Both the original felt seals (and their retainers below them) and modern lipped seal option are shown - they replace both felt seals and retainers. There were a few different wheel hubs for Chiefs over the years, with different versions of these parts.
<- Parts for a mixed 1947-48 Chief engine; Connecting rod races. Cam side main bearing housing is 1948-53 but the front cam shaft is 1938-47 for the cast iron oil pump (it changed to the aluminium pump with a different cam shaft in 1948), and distributor drive gear. Many Indian engines are a mix of years which can work fine with a little thought (or asking your favorite Indian parts supplier for guidance!). Next down in picture; pushrods available in several sizes for honing worn pushrod guides. Valve lift (cam follower) pivot shafts also available in oversizes for honing worn lifts. Chain tensioner shoe and wider lever (compare to pic above) are for a 1940-53 spring frame. Distributor grease cup, name tag and rivets, and advance clamps and cable swivel. The X'ed clamp wasn't in stock when I took the pic with a used one as place holder, but arrived in time to send out the order.
Here is the wheel bearing lock nut from the left in the pic above - with the tab washer for the 1931-47 Corbin speedometer drive. The ears have a habit of breaking off the washer if care is not taken to get them to fit both drive (below) and nut without binding.

Speedo drives available to order.

Here is the full set of distributor advance parts. A bit overwhelming; I understand the temptation to just stick a magneto in the oil pump! This is a staged pic I use to show it all in one place. Most of the parts are the same for Chief and Scout from 1938-53, the main difference is the clamping for the outer advance cable. Big coil clamp on the right is for Chief 1938-46. Twisted clamp is for 741, Junior Scout and Sport Scout. 1947-53 Chief used the neat L-clip with two special nuts on the outer cable.

1946-48 Chief girder fork shackle bolts and parts. The new 1946 fork had needle roller bearings (middle left in pic) and hardened shackle bolts. That changed in 1948 to bronze bushings and non-hardened bolts. The new bushings were were a smaller outside diameter than the 1946-47 bearings. As hardening and grinding is more difficult than lathe turning  - which may have been a reason for the factory change - only shackle bolts for bushings are now available new. But both bigger bushings (bottom row in picture above) to replace the 1946-47 bearings, and smaller 1948 bushings (top row in pic) are available. Also in pic, o-rings (one is used for each bushing) to keep grease in and rain out, knurled washers that must *just* turn when adjusting the bolts, as well as nuts and washers.

Oil line and fittings for 1948-53 aluminium oil pump and crank case with cast-in scraper. This is the oil line from the crank case back to the pump. Note that the oil line has a different shape than the 1947 scraper version above.

The 1938 to early 47 sump valve oil line is a third shape (see below). The oil pump fittings also vary over the years and between Chief and Scout, and there are different oil lines between the oil tank and the oil pump for Chief 1938-47 and for 1948-53 - and different again for 741 and Sport Scout. 

Footboards and parts 1940-53 all models. Well, except the military 741 etc, but these footboards will also fit the military bikes. Footboards and associated parts for earlier models also available to order.

1946-48 Chief steering damper parts. Compare with 741 parts bottom of page. Leaf spring models didn't have a damper from the factory but there were aftermarket dampers. The main part with the hand wheel here was also used on 1950-53 Chief, but some of the small parts were different.

Front fork shock absorber for 1946-48 Chief, as well as the small parts for fitting the shock to the girder fork assembly. Most other girder fork parts available to order.

Battery parts for 741. Similar parts are available for most other models.

Rear wheel hub parts for 741, Sport Scout. Similar parts available for other models

Oil related parts for 1938-47 Chief; similar parts used for other models but with some differences. Oil filter for return tube in tank (alternative oil filter here), felt ring for oil tank filler neck, oil lines and tank fittings (drain plug with and without magnet), breather tube (bent for easier transport here) and frame tube clips, oil tank fittings; 1938-47 return, 1939-47 feed, 1938-only feed with taper thread, and 1938 to early 47 sump valve oil line with fittings.

A selection (more types are available) of fuel valves (taps) for most models. The two most common Linkert float needle seats (1944-48 and 741 for fuel filter left, no-filter right) and DIY fuel line kit for soldering up with 1/4" copper pipe. Ready-made fuel lines for most models also available to order.

All the lower engine parts for a 741 with only bare cases, flywheels and rods. Rollers left out for clarity. This basic architecture is the same for all Indian v-twin engines from 1920-53, but the actual parts differ. I use this picture for general reference when discussing engine lower ends. I usually have these parts in stock for 1930s-53 Chief, Sport Scout and 741. Rod races and bearing housings come in a few different outer diameters for reclaiming oval or tapered connecting rod big ends and crank case bores. They all need honing or lapping internally, to fit one of the 5 sizes of bearing rollers I have. There are some procedures to observe with this (including cleaning off honing residue that is very damaging to engines); we can get back to that.
<- Top row: rod races and 4 bearing retainers for the connecting rod big ends. 
<- Second row: Flywheel crank pin nut and locking washer, hardened crank pin thrust washer for setting end play of the connecting rod assembly between the inner faces of the flywheels; I have the thrust washers in more thicknesses than the factory. And the same for the other side. Here's the basic procedure; also read the manual + we can discuss when you get to it. Trial assemble the flywheels - nuts torqed per the manual -  with a set of fairly thin washers, measure end play of rod assembly, select alternative washers to get end play right, take apart and do it again :-) I usually advise someone with a lathe to turn up dummy washers in any handy material, do the above and tell me which size washers to send. That is the basis of assembling Indian v-twin lower ends, apart from the bearing race sizing.
<- Third row: Pinion (cam side) main bearing housing, thrust washer, pinion shaft, shaft nuts, drive shaft, thrust washer, drive side bearing housing,  black drive side bearing nut above it.
<<- The two pinion and drive shaft thust washers are for setting the crank assembly end play between the inner faces of the main bearing housings. Final assemble flywheel assy after setting the rod end play (having checked rods for straightness and piston pin fit first), fit rollers and retainers, fit flywheel assembly in cases with fairly thin thrust washers, close cases with bolts tightened, measure crank end play and check that rods are central in cylinders. Select thrust washers based on this (combined thickness of the two washers for end play; rod centrality can be adjusted by selecting different thickness thrust washers each side, so make notes of what is used for trial assembly). Repeat as needed and let me know which thickness washers to send.
<<- Bottom row: pinion (cam drive) gear and felt seal retainer, felt seal, nut and washer, 2 main bearing roller retainers, shaft keys, nut locking washers and screws to fasten lock washers to flywheels, 4 roller retainers and spacer for the drive side. 

Brake pedal for Chief 1936-39. Pedal pivots on an extended nut on the front engine mounting bolt. The clevis (fork) for the rod to the rear brake was used in various roles from 1924-53. Pedal return spring in small hole. 

Rear brake parts 1936-39. Similar parts for the 1940-53 setup and other models/years are also available to order.


Brake pedal for Chief 1940-53. Pedal pivots on a bushing (or spacer) on a separate bolt on the frame. The front of two brake rods fits in either hole (brake force adjustment?). Pedal return spring is fitted further back.

<- If you imagine the long brake rod in this picture, all the other 1936-39 parts between pedal and rear brake arm are shown. 
Note: Not shown are the screws etc for the switch and plate (and the lower chainguard bracket that the plate fits to). The factory parts book is pretty vague about this, but here is my best guess.


1936-39  brake pedal seen from above, with the extended nut and Zerk nipple in place.

 1940-53 brake pedal seen from above, with spacer and Zerk grease nipple fitted.
Pedals for other models also available.

Horn parts for leaf spring fork Chief and Four; everything except the actual horn. Some of these parts were used for different years. The chrome face for 1931-40, the J-brackets 1938-45, the rubber mounts from 1931-45, the horn back 1938-40. The horn push button for all models from 1928-53 (1928-29 nickel plated, 1930-up chrome) with some detail differences. The combination of parts here is for 1938-40, but more or less all years combinations are available to order. 

It is a pain to photograph shiny chrome parts, but here is a better view of the 1931-40 horn face. The 6 screws and special (tall) lock washers are for fitting the face to the horn... seen here.

An authentic horn assembly is wonderful, but if your Indian is more of a "rider" than a "correct" restoration, it is tempting to bypass all of this for a small hidden "universal" horn, spending the saved money on engine parts!
I think I may have actually used a horn twice in 45 years of motorcycling :-)

More or less all the internal transmission (gearbox) parts for most years Chief. Like with the 741 lower engine parts above, this basic architecture is the same for all v-twin Indians from 1920-53 (and the roots of it are much earlier), even though actual parts differ between models and years.
Transmission/gearbox parts.
1 Counter shaft gear. 2 Bushings. 3 Spacer. 4 Slider gear. 5 Sprocket driver gear. 6 Bushing for SDG. 13 Main shaft. 14 Thrust washers in various thicknesses for setting main shaft end play and moving it from side to side - like a thinner washer one side, a thicker the other, same combined thickness for chosen end play. 16 Key for clutch hub. 17 Nut for clutch hub (L/H thread). 18 Lock washer for clutch hub. 19 Counter shaft. 20 Sealing washer in case. 21 Key to keep C/S from turning. 22. Lock ring to keep C/S inside 19BL which is the left case bushing for the countershaft; you can see the lock ring groove and keyway in it. 19BR is the right side bushing; both of these steel bushings should be an interference fit in the case (fitted by heating the case) so they don't move. They are available in several outside diameters for this. 27 Shaft for shifter fork. 28 Lock screw for shaft. E Lock washer for kickstarter parts. F Nut for kicker stuff. 24 Sprocket nut. 25 Lock washer for sprocket nut.

When discussing parts with customers I often put numbers on emailed pictures to make things easier to figure out. Like here.

<- See list of parts to the left.

Typical 1930s-1947 kickstarter parts. The big gear (here a 32T, 28T is also common; kickstarter crank must match the gear) and the "clutch" to the right of it were replaced with a new setup in 1948, losing the old ratchet noise from the clutch when the engine has started but the teeth on the kick crank is still in mesh with the gear. From 1920 the basic architecture of this was the same, but with smaller gear and clutch and such. Over the years most parts varied (a few actually stayed the same), but the overall idea remained unchanged.

Clutch on gear, arrow shows notch for punching the lock washer down into. One side of the washer is folded up against a flat on the nut. The clutch is fixed (oval hole) on the main shaft. The gear can rotate and float axially on the outer straight part of the shaft. 

The spring keeps gear and clutch in contact but allows the clutch to slip and make that typical Indian kicker noise.

The sprocket driver gear (5 above) runs with its bushing 6 on the thick straight part of the main shaft, and the step in the shaft must stick out of the gear a little even if all shaft end play is taken up in the "in" direction. If not, the cupped washer rides on the end of the gear. The cupped washer must sit on the step on the shaft. If circumstances (maybe clutch hub stick-out on the other end of the shaft) demand that the shaft is shimmed deep into the gear, a trick is to put a kick crank lock ring on the step to bring it clear of the gear. See "Sahara" above.

Finishing the parts around the transmission sprocket driver gear (SDG) is the sealing arrangement. There are a two options here; more info in the next columns ->
There are often options with Indian parts that we need to discuss when figuring out parts for your Indian project.
5 Sprocket driver gear. 7 Two options for bearings for the sprocket driver gear and clutch sprocket. 8, 9, 10, 11 are the original parts for the felt seal (9). 8A, 9A, 11A are the same parts for the lipped seal introduced in 1947 which also fits earlier models if all parts are replaced as a set. The felt seal retainer 10 is not used with the lipped seal. 23 Sprocket (generally, 23T for sidecar Chiefs, mountains or city-only riding, 24T better for all-round use, with 25T if you mostly ride motorways; Scouts use smaller sprockets). 24 Sprocket nut. 25 Lockwasher; punch the edge of the washer into the hole in the sprocket and fold one edge of the washer up along a flat on the sprocket nut to keep it from loosening.
Here is the picture with numbers like above. You can see that the numbers are the same for the same parts. It is a coincidence that I happened to pick a 23T sprocket for the pic.
Sprocket is fitted with the recessed face out like in the pic, and must fit tight against collar 11 or 11A, otherwise the splines on SDG 5 will quickly be damaged. That will also happen if you don't keep nut 24 tight.

Again numbers make it easier to figure things out by emailed pictures. Here all the bolts for 741 and Sport Scout engine plates etc.

I have similar bolts etc for other common models though some of it may have a little delivery time. But work with me and we will get there :-)

Pic by Simon F

To the left and above; where everything fits.
Spacer 5** is for the lower frame tubes. 
Spacer 3* is part of one engine plate.
Extra long nut *** is for the generator drive.

741 fork parts for a customer starting with just about nothing. Not all these parts are always available, so try to start your 741 project with a little more than nothing!

To the left and above; 741 and Sport Scout fork spring parts for the same project. Some fork parts are different for 741 and Sport Scout but many are interchangeable.
We will figure it out.

741 and Sport Scout fork damper parts for the same project. It would be a really good idea not to start your project with nothing. There will be a lot of parts to buy. But this project turned out great in the end.

Same here but not assembled ->

741 steering damper parts for the same project. They also fit Sport Scout (SS). 

Many 741 parts do, but far from all even if these models are generally quite similar.

741 fork shackles for the same project.
These parts are different for 741 and SS.

741 fork bolts, bushings etc.
These parts are different for 741 and SS.
Fun fact: The earliest 741s - that mainly went to NZ - used Sport Scout shackles, bolts etc.

Parts for another 741. Kickstarter, sprocket, lock washers, primary chain link, throttle shaft bushings. Fairly typical for a regular renovation starting with a complete bike. More parts usually needed for other areas of the bike.

Numbers again. More or less all 741 gaskets. I don't do "complete" gasket sets. There is no common agreement what should be in them. Are sealing washers for oil pump fittings included, for example? (generally no). It is best to go over everything to be sure you get what you need. Good fiber head gaskets usually in stock as well as solid copper. Chief and SS gaskets usually also in stock.

741 and Sport Scout primary chain tensioner parts. Compare the shoe (that runs against the 3-row Scout chain) and lever with the two Chief (4-row chain) versions above. Short lock nut used on Chief up to 1940 too.

More primary chain tensioner parts (here 1941-53 Chief), showing the internal construction. This is similar for all of them, and some - but not all - parts are the same. Most small parts, like the spring in the pic, are available individually to rebuild otherwise usable tensioner assemblies. Long adjuster screw lock nut used for 1941-53 Chief; other years and models used the short nut.

A framed 741 factory gasket set :-) ->
Also a new bracket for a Corbin speedometer. Used on 1938-47 Chief and Four, and 1952-53 Chief when they went back to Corbins after having used Stewart-Warner speedos with front wheel drive 1948-51. 

Upside down here; bracket loops under the frame tube, clamping speedo on top of it.

Chief manifold and parts. Aluminium manifold used 1947-53 but fits earlier models (that used a cast iron manifold) too. PEEK sealing cones made to fit each manifold. Manifold nuts, cylinder nipples and pins. I usually have at least one of these in stock.

Handlebar control cables and parts, various years and models usually in stock. Threaded colllars for handlebar repair, right in pic, no longer available. Early model cable ends, left in pic, are still in stock but there won't be more. More about related parts here.

Manifold for Keihin CV carb on 741, just a few left, there probably won't be more.

Parts for a 1940 Chief. Speedo cable and front brake cable parts, oil lines, Zerk grease nipples, fuel valves for customer to choose from, wheel bolts and a few other parts.

Sport Scout parts ->
Pushrods with and without oil grooves for customer to choose from. Pushrods for 741, SS and Chief usually in stock in STD and oversizes for honing worn guides.

Not the nicest lighting here, before I settled on my present setup.

Oil lines for a 741. 741 oil tank fittings have an angled head where Chief and SS are straight. Angle fittings (pic) for fuel valve clearance on carb side tank for big carbs (Keihin CV etc), optional on the other side.

<- Sport Scout parts. Original pushrod guide used for checking valve spring cover threads before sending parts out.

Just about all of the pictures here were taken with my cheap little Canon G9 - if you buy enough parts maybe I can afford a better camera :-)
Maybe even a stand to fight the shake blur! I use daylight when I can, otherwise a single 50W CFL bulb, usually facing up with a white ceiling as diffuser.