101 rolling chassis has now found a new home, but I'm leaving this little
story here for general inspiration.
Financially, it is a bad idea to build a 101 from parts (it doesn't matter if they are old or new, except you get a lot of extra repair work with the old parts).
If you have the money it makes more, long term financial, sense to buy the best and most expensive running 101 you can find. The poor guy who built it is never going to get his money back. If he did it right and didn't cut too many corners, that is.
However, when you look at a finished 101 it is hard to tell how well the, mostly hidden, mechanical work has actually been done.
This is the major reason for thinking about doing it yourself (and I am here to help you with anything you are not sure of, or don't have the machine tools to do). If you are in control of building up the bike, you decide how well things are done. Second, it allows you to put a personal touch on it, making it "your 101".
The good thing, financially, about building a bike from parts is that you can spread the expense over however long time it takes you to finish the bike.
The rolling chassis here is one I built for myself, but I am not sure I will get around to finishing it, so I am looking for a good home for it.
I am probably not going to put more of these together, but you can special-order the individual parts (you will never get them as cheaply as now, though!) - as well as any you may need to finish this chassis.
I am willing to sell this for less than the parts cost, and I don't even want to begin thinking about how many hours I have spent on making everything fit and work as it should.
This is sort of a lower level version of what I said above: "The poor guy who does the first build will never get his money back".
In addition to the rolling chassis, I also have an engine "starter kit".
There are more frame and fork detail photos here. where you can see how truly original these parts look.
Click photos to enlarge
these are the parts left over from the typical as-found 101 engine when
you throw away the parts that need replacing with new ones! The engine
parts are a start on a 1928 101 750cc stroker
engine with primary drive and gearbox.
I have the rest of the parts new, and will help with advice during your rebuild. Any machining jobs you can't do yourself, or have done locally, can be done here. From rebuilding the connecting rods to a complete engine rebuild. So, we can find a way of you doing what you can and IPE doing the rest. More about the engine here.
OK, all chassis parts are new, but look just like the old ones.
This rolling chassis looks just like an old 1928 chassis, with a few personal touches; stuff a speed minded owner might have done in the old days. Primarily some cool Burt Munro racer holes in the brake drums and backing plates (for cooling!) and in the pedals (for lightness!).
(there is a shallow dent on the top edge of the tank near the hand pump; good enough for me as it is - adds a bit of character! - but not too hard to fix)
means that it may be easier to continue this theme with the rest of the
build for a cool period bobberor racing style bike, rather than
build another coffee-table book 101.
(Just my personal opinion that, nice as restored-to-original 101s are, it can get a tiny bit boring that they all look the same - note that I said "restored"; original unrestored bikes are something else, and these should not be messed about, as patinated original bikes are the peak of coolness!)
One added benefit of this approach would also be that you will save a lot of money by leaving off the megabucks Corbin speedo, and not having to buy "correct" fenders, tool- and battery boxes and other sheet metal - and by finding cool period parts for head- and tail lights etc, not having to use the "correct" Indian parts.
For example, this 101 has a later headlight fitted with a simple DIY bracket.
That said, it would not be an insurmountable task to close the racer holes for original looks if that was what you wanted.
(I will include the frame clamp for the brake plate too)
I said before, I put this together for myself, and I made sure everything
fits and works as it should (this can actually be a big job with both old
and new parts; there is a lot of fettling and fitting involved with any
Indian rebuild). There are probably still a few adjustments to be made,
but you will be way ahead of just a pile of parts.
One of the few remaining jobs is to make
rear axle spacers in the correct thickness (the spacers on now are just
"place holders"). I wanted to wait with this until final assembly to make
sure everything lined up. This is not a big job for anyone with a lathe,
or any small machine shop. The front brake anchor is just loosely fitted
on the parts is just spray-can primer. You can either paint
of the non-painted parts are nickel plated, some
are stainless steel, and a few chrome.
Handlebar tubes are just loosely inserted into the center casting in the pictures. The idea being to cut them to length and rotate them for a good riding position when I got that far.
This means that you can get a riding position to fit YOU, rather than some 1920s average size rider, before brazing or silver soldering in the tubes (if you have never done this, it is actually dead easy; ask if in doubt).
The rubber grips in the pix are from a later model, but you can have any model you like.
The steering head bearings and top nut are my stainless taper roller ones (see 101 parts page for more details). These are a huge improvement over the original loose balls. Polish to look like nickel or leave them alone as you like.
Just insert engine!
consider doing something like thisto
the original fork to handle bar interface, which is not
very well thought out. Again, ask if you are not sure.
Tires are new Avon 18 x 4.00 on original profile 18" rims. Wheel bearings are the later Timken rollers, rather than the earlier loose balls. This is also a big improvement, and the factory used these on 101s from 1929 or 1930 (I forget right now, but can look it up if you really want to know!).
Front engine mounting bolt, spacers and nuts included, as well as all the brake linkages and cross-over shaft/levers. Clutch linkage too - just hook up the engine!
You may have to trim the foot board rubbers a bit for a perfect fit. A good tip is to stick/glue them onto the foot boards so water can't get under them and rust the boards.
Also included is the battery bracket that also serves as the lower rear fender mount.
The saddle spring bracket (that does tripple duty as generator- and top rear fender mount) is also included, as well as the mounting hardware for this.
I think I remembered everything, but ask if there is anything you are not sure of, or want better pictures of.
Brand New 101 Rolling Chassis!
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