101 Stroker Engine Kit

More photos below

1928 Indian 101 Model G Engine Kit with Stroker Flywheels for 45"/750cc

All the parts here are original parts. The parts you don't see are the parts that must usually be replaced with new ones in any case. So, what you see in the photo is what is usually left when you take a 101 engine apart and throw away the parts that are too worn to be used again.

Almost all of the parts to be replaced are available new from IPE. The only exceptions I can think of right now are: Cam followers (741 and Sport Scout can be used), shifter fork (ditto, I think), shaft and "finger" in the shifter tower. None of these are particularly hard to find, and perhaps good used parts can also be found instead of new ones in some of the other cases. If you get stuck, I could probably find these parts for you.

Some repair work was mentioned in description for some of the parts when I first took the pictures, but I have since fixed most of it (se notes in picture text below).

This is actually a good and sound beginning for a nice 101 engine but - unless you can do everything yourself - it is going to take some work and money to rebuild. However, you will end up with one of the best and most iconic motorcycles of the 1920s - so it may just be worth the trouble and expense.

As I mentioned earlier, any aspect of the machine work (and there is quite a lot of this involved in rebuilding Indian engines) that you don't have the equipment for, or no local place to do for you, can be done here. That could be jobs like:

Rebuilding the connecting rods: Straightening, honing of big- and little end eyes, fitting and honing of pin bushings, fitting of custom ground rod races, setting rod-to-rod end play and honing races to final size.

Rebuilding the flywheels: Balancing to your piston weight, assembling and trueing, setting of rod end play.

Main bearings: Bearing bores in cases honed round, new custom ground bearing housings fitted and honed to size. Possibly also fitting of flywheel assembly in cases and setting of end play of flywheel assembly in cases.

Cam bushings:Aligning (between crank case and cam cover), fitting and sizing bushings to fit your cam shafts.

-or whatever else you may need. 

So, all parts are available, all problems have a solution. This could be a good start on your very own Indian 101.

Ask if you have any questions or want better photos of anything.

Click on photos to enlarge

Drive side crankcase half. Number says 1928.
What may look like cracks in the photo are just casting marks.

Drive side case half. Looks nice.

Cam side case has been welded (frame mounting hole), but it looks like an OK repair.

Inside you can see the repair.

Repair again. The best way to get the gasket surface flat again is to put the case in lathe, indicate it, and flatten the weld (maybe take an extra 0,1mm all over, ASK FIRST if you are not sure about this!). Maybe it can also be hand-filed flat. I have fixed this.

Original baffles are intact on both case halves. As the cases have been bead blasted, make SURE there is no glass beads in the corners of the baffles. I use Glyptal paint to seal everything (after much cleaning) inside Indian cases.

Cam cover looks nice.

Also on the outside.

Oil pump still has some 83 years old nickel!

Gear is a little worn, but that all are now. Gear turns OK, but pump needs disassembly and cleaning.

All parts seem to be there, except the adjusting screw in the threaded hole here (I have these new).

WL 45 flywheels will make the 600cc 101 engine into a 750cc engine. These flywheels look OK. They will of course need rebuilding. See the IPE stroker page for info on this, and for a list of special stroker parts you will need.

Other side.

WL 45 rods look OK too. Will need rebuild too.

Other side.

Front cylinder has a broken base corner. Easy to weld up and grind down. If cast iron welding is a problem for you, I can do it here. I have fixed this.

Other than that the cylinder looks OK. No cracks between bore and valve seat. Both cylinders, of course, need a normal rebuild - bore, hone, valve guides, valve seats.

Exhaust port has been repaired at some point. Looks OK. Maybe the threads need a little fettling, but that is only to be expected after so many years.

Rear cylinder has a broken fin, but not where you really see it. I would be tempted to leave it alone.

This one looks OK too.

Front cylinder head is almost perfect; no fins missing and still some original nickel. Rear head has a few broken fin corners under the dirt, but is nice too.

Another angle.

Heads are actually 1927. These are perfect for 101 stroker engines as they have room for piston "pop-up" already. Usually the edges of the recess in the heads need a little relieving, and you must check carefully that the pistons don't hit. Bolt holes are smaller in 1927 heads (apart from this and the recess mentioned above they look the same as 101), and must be enlarged a little. I have fixed this.

Gearbox case looks nice. Rear mounting lug has been welded, but it looks like a good repair.

Weld has been machined down.

One of the engine mounting ears has also been repaired; looks good. Also a Helicoil.

Looks good from this side too.

And here.

And here!

Shifter tower and cap. OK.

Other side. Also OK.

Inner primary cover looks nice.

Also from the other side.

And here.

Outer primary cover has had a nasty accident some time in the past, and also a nasty repair. The best way to fix this is probably in a milling machine. Mill out the center of the cover, make a repair piece in the lathe, weld it in.

Or you can look for another cover; they are not so hard to find.

Clutch drum and clutch hub look OK.

One stud has been changed (they often break; I have new studs). Repair looks OK.

Primary drive gear on engine drive shaft (right), and intermediate gear look OK.

Teeth are 83 years old, but still looking good!
Intermediate gear will need a new bearing ring fitted (I have these in semi-finished form to be ground to fit the gear) and new shaft. All such parts are available new from IPE.

Generator drive, complete.

Other side.

Base flange is broken, but can be welded. Or I can throw in a new housing.

The base flanges often break, which is why new housings/bodies are available. They need bushings and mounting holes, and it may be easier to weld the original.


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